How to Paint: Imperial Fists - Fafnir Rann

Hello and welcome back to Fohhammer videos and this week I'm going to be painting Fafnirang

Before I begin I just want to do a quick shout out and thanks to my Patreon

who I'll put here, one of the sides and it's thanks to them that I'm able to do videos like this now

now and if you want to support the channel obviously you can join us on Patreon but just a like

comment or subscribe to the channel really really helps out and finally I just want to do my question

of the week and this week as we have Fafnirang who is a 30k model I want to know in the comments

when do you think and you may not have heard of this but when do you think we're going to see

the Horace Heresy second edition get released I'm sure it was over a year ago now when

spiky bits actually showed us a picture of this upcoming box and we've heard absolutely

nothing from Games Workshop about this heavily rumoured and most likely release that's coming in

2022. So when do you think we're going to hear more about it? Let me know down in the comments

I'm going to get on with some painting. Come and join me. Starting off, we've got a mix of Avalon Sunset

and Troll Slayer Orange over a Vallejo grey primer base. This is close to a 50-50 mix. A lot of people

struggle when shading yellow. And the problem is if you add black, like most people

wood to darken any colour, you end up with a really, really muted yellow. So in order to darken

a yellow, you need something like an orange if you want to keep the vibrancy. But if you want to desaturate

it a bit, you can just use a brown. First step here is just to cover the entire model. Make

sure you get in all the hidden gaps and nooks and crannies and get everywhere covered in this

sort of darkened ochre colour. You may have noticed I'm using the Citadel air range here, and that's mainly because I like to use the proper Citadel and Warhammer colours when painting Space Marine armour

These are really great because you can spray them straight out of the pot, but the problem with them is that they come in pots and you can't easily transfer them to an airbrush

Next up, we're going in with pure Avaland Sunset. So what most people will do when it comes to highlighting a model using an airbrush

airbrush is they'll spray from 45 degrees and spin the model in a circle and that's called a

zenithal highlight which is an overall gradient along the surface of the model but if you really want

the model to stand out and for the armor plates and things like that to pop you've got to do what's called

picking out the forms so everything's a form that is a shape so things like the arms things like

the legs the toes the knees pads even the backpack is a form so pick out the highlights on each

component individually and the model will look far better for it. So next up is Yareal Yellow and you'll notice this is a normal layer paint, not an air paint

And the reason for that is Games Workshop don't make a air paint of this colour

Thankfully, just a couple of drops of Vallejo Airbrush thinner, four or five drops of

Yareal Yellow layer and you've got yourself your own airbrush paint. The two colours that Games Workshop do offer are Phalanx Yellow and Flashkitch Yellow, both of which

aren't going to be far too bright for the armour on this space marine. So this time we're doing exactly the same as we did before

We're just trying to be a bit more controlled and spray within the areas that we sprayed last time

There's no rule on this. It's not like spray one third or two thirds

Just keep building up layers slowly until you are happy with the progression from the new bright yellow highlight to the deep orange

base. This next step is optional, but just take some griffhound orange and you can thin it with

contrast medium. To be fair, I'm airbrushing it. I could have easily thinned it with water

So here I just kind of doing the opposite of what I did in the last step where I sprayed on the highlights And I using this sort of muddy orange to reinforce some of the shadows in different areas on the model

The good thing about contrast paint is it's super thin. So so long as you've got good airbrush control with a decent PSI

then this step is going to be an absolute doddle. So next up, I'm going to use some silly putty for masking

my favourite product for masking because it's really easy to just build up in layers and then push

into place on the model leaving the only thing exposed as the thing you want to paint. Next I'm

using rinox hide as a base for the flesh. The reddy brown tones add a really good natural

shadow for human skin so it's a great place to start. Now I'm choosing death claw brown as my first

level of skin highlight, mainly because I had nothing else to choose from

And now Kislev Flesh as a highlight for the skin, and with this one I'm only going to spray from

one side to add some depth across the surface of the face

Removing the silly putty to do the reveal is normally my favourite part of this process

but being a bit heavy-handed, I knocked both axes off the model

The reason I love Silly Pudy is because unlike Blue Tack, it doesn't fully adhere to the model

Yeah, you get some occasional bits that get stuck, but you can just pick them out with some tweezers

or get a big ball of Silly Puddy and then just roll it in and pat it against the model until it comes clean

So I'm now going to use Wraithbone to do all the edge highlighting on the model

I am, however, going to mix this in with a little bit of Yario yellow just to increase the vibrancy

of the colour that we use. And the mix together is going to make a bit of a kind of ice yellow

for lack of a better colour description. So here I'm doing three or four things at once

I'm mixing the colour whilst adding the paint onto the bristles. Then I'm working it off until it softly picks out

only the raised edges of features on my texture palette. And then once I've done that, I know that when applying it to the model

it's only going to pick up and highlight those raised edges, thus doing all my edge highlighting in literal minutes

Whilst you'll primarily see me run this along an edge to highlight one, you'll also see me doing this along an edge to highlight one, you'll also see me doing this twisting technique

which is smoohing paint onto a model. And that's another way of getting a highlight embedded into a flat surface

So things like that, seven on the shield, that's a good place to pick out because you really, really want it to catch the eye

which it will do more so when we add a shade. Also here on the top of the chest

that's somewhere that I really want to add some highlight and shine to. Now I'm going to add some Kislev flesh to that wraith bone and make a mix out of that

I know I could go up and just use flayed one flesh, but I find that a bit thin

whereas using the properties of the denser wraith bone is much, much easier for dry brushing

And here I'm just lightly picking out all the edges across the surface of the face

Even in the shadow areas, I want the highlights in there to be super duper bright

I'm now taking Pro Ackles bright warm grey to paint in any white areas along with my trusty artist

opus series 3 which I use for pretty much everything. Now I don know if it my bottle but my pro acral bright warm grey actually reads to my eyes as a slightly blue cool grey which is exactly what we want to contrast against the bright warm yellow on this model

If you haven't tried the pro-acral paints yet, do what most people do. Just go and get their white, try it out once and then have that ooh-move moment that everyone has

Before long, you'll have bought the entire set. Now, to do the red parts, we're going to be using Citadel's flesh tear as red from the contrast

The great thing about Citadel contrast paints, like any transparent inks for that matter

is they'll help retain some of that surface level shadow and highlight that you've put on in the

previous layer, although in my case I forgot how intense flesh tear as red was, and I probably

should have thinned it a bit. Now I'm going to use Kislev flesh again, and this time I'm

using it to highlight any of the red areas. And the reason why I use a skin tone is because

this is leather, and I was told a long time ago, if you're highlighting leather, well, leather is skin

if it's worn and damaged, it's going to go back to a natural skin colour

Now I'm doing all the metal areas with Vileo's duer aluminium from Vileo metal colour range

along with a drop of contrast ultramarines blue. I absolutely love this paint

It's so thin and the coverage. is excellent. I'm adding some blue in here, just a drop of blue, so that again I can have that

little bit of extra contrast against the bright yellow armour. Please try and ignore the fact that

the axe is already partially painted. The reason for this is because I tried recording this

before, but I hadn't shaken the Vallejo metal colour paint enough, so it ended up going on

too thin. So now I'm just going over and you can very slightly see that blue just pop out on the edges

of this colour. And now I'm going to drop down to the artist opus series S size 1

The reason for this, it doesn't give me a sharper point, but what it does is the width of the belly of the brush

just gives me a lot more control when trying to get into some of these areas

If I used a larger brush, I am liable to flood the area with paint

which is what I want to avoid. And now pro-acrall's blue black, which will read as black when on the model

but we can shade it down with a true black and that blue is going to give us that little bit of extra contrast

against the warm yellow of the armour. Sorry about the footage here

I went out of my focal area on the camera. I'm also now going to step down to the M-Series brush

from Artis Opus. This has a much shorter tip on it, so the bristles are very, very tight

This gives me a lot more control when painting the edge of the insignia. To edge highlight the black, we're using bright, warm grey

which I'll say again, looks to me, that is a cool grey

That is a bluey grey. Why it's called warb grey, I don't know. But again, work it onto your brush, work it off

and these domed dry brushes allow for a really soft and smooth transition

on all of the black areas of the model. And if you hit any of the silver areas, it doesn't matter, it's silver, this is grey

you're not going to see it. And now we're using Snape-Bike leather

I'm going to thin this again with contrast, and here it's pretty much necessary to use the contrast medium as a thinner

If you use water, then it ends up going a bit blotchy and splotchy

With the contrast medium thinner, it reduces the opacity of the colour

but still allows that level of control where the darker colour goes into the recesses

But you can use a wash or equivalent to do the hair in a deep brown

And now to protect all of that colour, we're going to use Vallejo gloss varnish

There's not much to see here. I mean, I'm spraying clear onto a model, so you can't really see it

So let me just tell you, we're heading into the part of the video where it's do what I say, not what I do

And what I did was leave this 20 minutes to dry before the next stage What you should do is leave it overnight or at least a few hours Time for oil paint Oh forgive me there I not sure what happened to my voice So first up with

oil paints, I'm going to mix a purple colour. The reason mainly is because Abtelung 502, my go-to-oils

don't have a deep purple colour. But I want this purple, which is a complementary colour to the yellow

of the armour, to be the majority of the shadow. But I am going to decrease the value here with

some black and add some brown in there to mute it down, but it just needs that touch of purple

to add the contrast that you need. I've also added mineral spirits to the burnt umber and the black

and I'm going to use the thin burnt umber for all of the metallic areas and the black on the reds

Now the good thing about oil paints is you don't really need to be careful with them. You just slosh it

on. And the bit where I said earlier I should have left my varnish to dry, well, we'll come on to

that in a second. But just get the purple, dark purple colour that you've made onto the yellow areas

Don't worry if it goes onto the other bits, because adding the mixture between the two areas

is going to add a bit of colour modulation and a bit more visual interest in the model. So you

really don't need to be careful with this. Just add the dark purple to the yellow, the brown to

the metallics, add the black to the reds, and then you are pretty much done. Leave it to one side

and let it dry. Just let it go matte. So remember how I said do what I say, not what I do? Well, I didn't do what I've just told you to do. I didn't let it dry at all. In fact, I only did it for about three minutes under a hair dryer. So the problem I now have is the areas of the model, the recesses that I want the pigment to stay in. Because I didn't let it dry, those areas are still wet with mineral spirits. So as I rub it with my makeup sponge, I'm just lifting it back out. That coupled with the fact that I didn't leave my gloss

varnish overnight to dry has left me with a very spotted and very speckled surface

The final thing to do on the model though, just to unify everything, is to give it a matte coat

which once again here you can't really see, but I'll show you in the finish result what the model looks like

So there we go. Even though I've made a few mistakes and there are parts I'm not happy with

I am still generally quite impressed with the result. And I'm going to stick this model up on eBay

I've been curious about doing this for a while and it's for an upcoming video that I've got an idea of

But I just want to see what the value of it is. So if you're watching this during the week that this video was released

the model's already been up for a few days and it started at only one piece. So I'm not out there saying, pro-painted, 500 pound, you've got to buy this

I just kind of want to see what the value of my artwork and my style is like

even when I've made a few mistakes and a few errors in my general process that I apply

So thank you for watching. Don't forget, we really, really do need your support

So just quickly comment, question of the week. Pop a like on the video if you liked it

Help, pop a dislike if you disliked it. But do me a favour. If you disliked it, tell me why

I know there's a few errors in the video, and I will look to improve that in the future

This is one of the first ones I've done, and I've actually forgotten a lot of the things that I did in previous videos

But this is something that I'm going to be doing more and more regularly, so hopefully I'll be able to keep the standard up and keep it quite high

If you want to give me a suggestion as you to what you want me to paint next

something quick and simple, that you just want to get an impressive-ish-looking army out on the table

Join up on our Patreon. I'm going to be doing a quick announcement and a questionnaire on there to see what people want coming

So if you join our Patreon, it's only £1 a month for now. Come and let me know what you think

And that's everything for now. So I'm going to love you and leave you. Fohhammer out

Thanks for your support. Don't forget to like, comment, subscribe. Boom. It's still come out quite impressive if I do say..