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hi I'm peachy time to stop your grinning
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and drop your limit welcome to the
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now a painting camera can be quite
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tricky because you want your model to
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look camouflaged without it being
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camouflaged therefore distort the model
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and making it seem a bit blurry and just
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breaking it all up you don't want that
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you want it to look cool and stand out
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so in this video we're going to show how
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to do that we're also going to show you
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a selection of cameras which you can use
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on any miniature whether that be a
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Sci-Fi onto a Sci-Fi hunting a thatha
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alien badass but we're going to show you
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a selection of ways to paint camo that
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you can use on any miniature whether
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that be a Sci-Fi alien hunting badass a
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modern day Soldier or anything else like
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ashimovitorium so stay tuned keep
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watching for that we're awesome we're
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using some clone and Marine style prints
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from we print Miniatures now they have
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quite a vast selection of models that
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you can check out there's something
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there for everybody now we have an
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affiliate Link in the description so
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also check out that I'll take you
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straight to the site and you can see all
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the cool stuff they have we particularly
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like Barry McGuffin in all his guises
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and if you check to our fingertling you
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yeah now the top tip when doing camo
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patterns it's a good idea to get
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yourself some reference material whether
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that's on screen on your phone but I
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like to actually physically paint it so
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over here I've used palette pad and I've
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just painted the designs and I'll always
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have that next to me when I'm painting
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and referring to it just you can see the
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colors next to each other how they work
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top tip there I always recommend doing
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it I'm gonna use a base instead of a
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pallet pad does the same job so first up
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it's gonna be our cloning Marine Corps
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kind of skin which is inspired by the
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film aliens and we'll be starting off by
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using an undercoat of army painter army
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green first up is the base coat the
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figure and for this I'm applying an
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olive green tone I'm using daffield
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Forest but there's plenty of other
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varieties out there you can use again
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just do a couple of coats to get a nice
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with the fatigue is now base coated I'm
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going to begin with my first pattern
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design these are going to be fairly
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sizable splodges of a dark greenish gray
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for this I'm using Army painter dark
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with the first pattern painted on I'm
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now moving onto the cream pattern as a
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bit of a greenish tint to it I opted to
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use iron rack skin because I think it's
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when doing this move on to a smaller
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brush but be mindful not to paint over
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too much of the olive green base or that
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field grade pattern you've just done
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as we're still on the base coat stage
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you can always amend this if you don't
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like some of the patterning
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now our pattern is painted and we're
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happy with it we shall now coat over
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with thin down Nord oil I'm using two
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parts water to one part shade this will
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shade the camera pattern trousers where
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we need it and from a speed point of
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view there's no reason to highlight once
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the shade is dry and depending on how
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thin the application was in some place
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you might need to add a bit more punch
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to those camo colors as you can see I'm
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just Tiding back up with a little bit of
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death wood forest and a little bit of
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spray as a base we should apply our
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first pattern color and for this we'll
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be using black Legion again I've used a
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piece of reference to keep me on track
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with the pattern whether the T-Pain is
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more Splat and sponge style pattern the
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armor is more blobs and sausages
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continue with that effect what we're now
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going to do is use more than Fang Brown
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and follow the same process
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I'm using zandro dust and applying a few
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sausage shapes here and there
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now our camera pattern is painted on the
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armor we should now coat over with a
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thin down coat of normal oil again using
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the same mix as the fatigue so two part
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water to one part shade the unit
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painting I would apply this wash all at
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the same time so once you've done the
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fatigues and the armor just kept
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everything with normal oil
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and just for a little extra definition
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I'm going to use some black Legion just
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to help separate the armor from the
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cloth so it's a bit of a pin wash here
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again that is just to help separate the
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arm and the cloth I'm going to use some
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matte varnish now to remove any Shine
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from the cloth as Shades can dry a
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little shiny this is great because it
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then makes the armor and the cloth feel
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like two different textures there we are
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our colonial marine camo is now done
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both the arm and the cloth now on the
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armor it does have a little bit of like
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white camo here and there I chose not to
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do it a bit of artistic license it's up
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to you if you want to put it in there
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but I just think it added too much to
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the model got a bit too confusing so
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next up is the urban color scheme which
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is perfect for the astrum of time
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regiment the canine 122nd as well which
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are the one from the old city fine book
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if you've ever seen them very nice over
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a great undercoat I'm going to begin by
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using rust gray as a base layer for the
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camo as it's in layer paint you might
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want to do two Thin coats
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for our first camo pattern design
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again testing this beforehand and having
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reference is key I will describe this
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pattern as well as horizontal almost
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horizontal wise proper case or lowercase
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doesn't really matter
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the black pattern done we're now going
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to move on to the last pattern color
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which is white for this I'm going to use
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Pro curls bolt titanium wine if you
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don't have any white a light gray or
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off-white will work as well
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now picked out we're now going to shade
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over the cloth for this I'll be using
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thin down lawn oil again like the
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previous camo scheme I'm using two parts
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water to one part shade
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now the previous two camera schemes do
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require you to take your time do some
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practice and have a nice Steady Hand
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however the next scheme is going to be
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fairly quick and for this we'll be using
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a sponge so this is aimed at any level
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hobbyist it's probably not the best
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camera scheme in the world but it is a
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really nice simple way of getting
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current pans put on the model looks a
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little bit like the multi-count slash
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Fleck tone that we see in modern day
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camo patterns first up we're going to
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base cut our clothing or for teams with
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a Light Beige or green if you want here
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I'm using xandry dust
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with a clothing now base coated I'm now
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going to apply wild flesh with a sponge
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this is a little like dry brushing so
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once you've loaded up the sponge I'm
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going to dab it onto some tissue to
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remove a fair bit of that pigment
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this will stop the color making a mess
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but also give a nice simple fleckton or
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continue with that effect what we're now
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going to do is use more than Fang Brown
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and follow the same process
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for extra detail you can choose to add
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to the camera pattern with a few dots
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for the brush again just using the same
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brown and green colors from our previous
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now Pat has painted on the clothing we
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should now coat over with a thin down
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coat of agrabs at her shade here I'm
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using two parts water to one part shade
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and there we have it our three ways to
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paint camo is done and I hope you've
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enjoyed it and please let us know in the
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comments which one you choose for your
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armors as well now we'll also be
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dropping in the paints in the
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description and talk in the description
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we've got a whole bunch of links down
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here we've got some affiliate links so
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if you're shopping in the UK or Mainland
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Europe check those out also we have a
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link for we print Miniatures as well and
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you'll get a nice juicy discount if you
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shop there as well which is very nice we
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also have a patreon as well not only
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does this help support us it keeps the
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lights on Keeps Us stocked in tea and
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also you get loads of cool benefits as
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well and juicy behind the scenes like me
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saying this over and over and over
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because I can't say the bit at the end
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because I'm an idiot that's what's
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happened Pat knows it you guys know it
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because you're watching this I'm making
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this video goal for like 20 minutes now
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just by waffling away here but I don't
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care well I hope you've enjoyed this
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video anyway we better to get back
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because it'll be dark soon and they
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mostly come out at night