Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures and Models

Looking for Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures can be quite daunting. There are so many guides online and contrasting opinions that it took me 6 months of research before I dove in. What I have found since is that I didn’t need to spend all this time. In the end, my beginner kit was much simpler and much cheaper than I expected or in some cases was lead to believe. So I’d like to share with you below what a beginner kit consists of. The best part is, it’s not going to cost hundreds for you to get started. It’s not actually that expensive at all.

I will stress that this guide is not for everyone and if you are happy with a normal brush, then fine, stick with it. But please consider that there are other benefits to Airbrushing than improving how your mini’s look. Because that’s not always the case. As there is an insurmountable number of cases where an airbrush will not automatically improve the way your mini’s look.

This article uses affiliate links, it is how I keep the blog alive. If you are doing this and buy your bits from eBay, please consider clicking one of my links to your country listings below. It won’t cost you any more but I get a commission which goes back into this site.

Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures –  The Benefits

It’s likely you already know this, but there were a few reasons I wanted to get an airbrush, and many more advantages I’ve found since.

  • You can primer your models all year round
    • This is the primary benefit, especially for those in cold climates, with rattle-cans you will find inconsistent results depending on the outside temperature and humidity. In some cases, you simply cannot prime your minis as the air properties will have too much of an impact on the drying of a spray can, your primer coat could be ruined.
  • You can primer your models in a greater variety of colours
    • Ok, I’ve not done an exhaustve comparison here, I’m really just directly comparing Games Workshop’s Spray Primer range to something Like Vallejo’s Airbrush Primer range where the colour availability is much greater. But I know many of you will use Rustoleum or other sprays where I have no idea of the number of colours available.
  • It’s much cheaper to prime your mini’s
    • Yes, the initial outlay for an Airbrush is more than several primer cans, but you will make that back in your first bottle of airbrush primer. I have primed over 100 models using a 60ml bottle of Vallejo Black Surface Primer (73.602) which cost £5.99 and I still have half the bottle left. In fact, I’m still using the same bottle I bought at the same time as the airbrush. Although to be fair, I have bought other bottles too, but still, 100+ models in half a bottle of Primer is damn impressive.If you want to work out the value of getting an airbrush now vs more cans, just ask, do you think you will be painting more than 100 standard miniatures in your future? If so, get an airbrush now.
  • You can see how much primer you have left
    • If you’ve been modelling for a while you have surely had a situation where you are trying everything to get those last few dregs out of a can to finish that last model you are priming and nothing works. You’ve either ended up with a half primed model or the primer has dried funny in your incessant twisting and shaking as you spray. With airbrush primer, you can see how much is in your bottle before you start, and if it runs out halfway through, just come back later when you get more.
  • You can primer your models indoors
    • The same is true with cans I suppose, but the smell is enough to put most people off using them indoors. Beyond that, the width of overspray on a can is the second thing that would put you off. With an airbrush, it’s a very direct, small light spray. so long as you have a decent sized box, you can use your airbrush at your desk.
  • It will greatly speed up your army painting
    • Once you have primers out of the way, you can buy Airbrush Paints. Games Workshop now does a pre-thinned range of Citadel airbrush paints. which is fine for the convenience, but you can easily thin any of the existing Citadel range with something like Car Screenwash or Distilled Water. This is much easier too if you have already transferred your Games Workshop Paints to Dropper Bottles. Now you can Prime and base a Squad or whole army in minutes as opposed to hours, so if you’re wanting to get your models built and painted for a tabletop battle ASAP, there is no easier way.
  • You will have much smoother base coats than with a brush
    • I may be wrong here, There may be some master painters out there who are able to paint incredibly smooth base coats without any brush strokes visible. Just look at Games Workshop’s own Duncan Rhodes and his tutorials. But I can’t match this. After years of painting, my base coats are still quite terrible. I don’t accept this about myself and consider myself a poor painter until I can master this basic technique, But I saw an Immediate and impressive boost in my finished model quality when I started using an Airbrush. I’ve added comparison pictures below.
  • You can create some incredible effects.
    • The easiest and most common effect is Zenithal Shading, this is where you base the model in 1 colour, then from above at a 45-degree angle spray the model with a lighter colour to show how it would be lighter in the areas as the sun hits it.  But beyond this, you can also mask off your model with putty and paint other colours on different areas. you can easily do Object Sourced Lighting (OSL) to show the glow off lights and weapons. A bit of masking tape will give you stripes, Blu tack will give you some cool camo effects and get some sequin waste to do some incredible colour patterns,
  • Airbrush paint is thinner than spray
    • Or perhaps I was always too heavy handed with my spray cans. But I have found significantly less detail loss since switching to an Airbrush. The primer is like a thin coat of dust across the model surface. Less than dust even, but that’s probably just because I need to clean my house more.


Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures –  The Kit

So, what do you need to get started? I’ve listed all the necessary kit elements below.

1. An Airbrush Kit

Which Normally consists of;

1a.  A Compressor

Your beginner kit will consist of A Compressor and an Airbrush. There are many airbrush compressors out there to choose from and if you are looking for the best model, I’m sorry to say getting the best compressor is a waste of time. Especially if you are a beginner. It’s a simple bit of kit, it sucks in air and stores it. As you press the nozzle on your airbrush it releases the compressed air. Like I said, It’s a simple bit of kit.

But the one you want should look like the one in the image below.



Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures

Don’t worry too much about the model number or anything, just get anything that looks like this.

The key thing to take away from this is that it has the compressor element (the silver bit on top) and a tank. (the black bit on the bottom). This is where I made a mistake, You can get them without a tank and that’s what I got because I was trying to save a few quid. Don’t get me wrong mine works and it’s fine but without the tank to store your compressed air, The airbrush compresses as it sprays. meaning it is noisy. I also get a sharp blast of air at the start then the pressure drops and doesn’t quite stay consistent. Also, it builds up moisture and it sprays that from time to time ruining my paint job. With a tank, you get a more consistent spray and it doesn’t run the compressor the whole time so it’s a bit less of an annoying noise as you use it. You can save a few quid getting one without a tank, but for the extra few quid/bucks/dolla yo, you’ll regret not getting a tank.

Once you have a compressor you can attach any airbrush and this should last you a good number of years. AS for when you would upgrade to more pro kit; don’t worry, you’ll know when you’re ready.

But whatever you do, just don’t buy something like this;

Can Powered, No, just no!

If you’re buying can’s of air then why not just buy can’s of paint, also, you’re buying AIR!

Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures


A handheld model

This is ok I guess, but I think these are more for painting nails, I know I said that an air compressor is a simple bit of kit, but it’s not this simple. I suppose the question you want to ask here is how long do you want the kit to last? This looks like it would overheat in 5 minutes and be dead in 7. I’ve never tried one, I won’t try one, and for the difference in price between this and a normal compressor I certainly won’t recommend one, even to try.

Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures

1.b An Airbrush

The best thing is, using the links above you’ll find a myriad of listings which come with Airbrushes bundled in. Cool! In regard to which ones you get, again for a beginner, it really doesn’t matter. So don’t go searching for the best or most appropriate ones. If you really want to be particular, then get a kit that has a gravity fed airbrush. (in the photo below it’s the one on the right). For miniature painting, this is the most common type you will use. The syphon fed (one on the left in the below pic) is overkill, as you will be filling those bottles with more paint than you need to spray 20 models before it even sucks. Gravity fed is nice and simple you just put a few drops of thinned or pre-thinned paint in the top and spray. Just be sure to keep it upright, and don’t shake it as you spray. Yep, I made both of those mistakes. You can also find some that have a paint well attached to the side of an airbrush. That is what I have and it’s like a gravity fed brush but not as convenient as you need to put more paint in before it sprays. I use it mainly for Primering and Base Coating, not for detail work.

Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures
Left = Siphon fed, Right = Gravity fed

the reason I’m saying it doesn’t matter is that these are your first Airbrushes. They aren’t £160 Iwata Eclipses (Expensive high-end airbrush). You are likely going to destroy them. I’m sorry to say but unless your friend has an airbrush and can directly instruct you through the correct maintenance process, they are going to get clogged with paint, damaged, parts lost, the seals will get worn away and they will be wrecked. Would you rather learn airbrush maintenance on something that cost £160 or £6? Practise on a few el-cheapos before you step up the pro league, especially if you are just dipping your toe in the water. You don’t even know yet if airbrushing is right for you.

I know some people disagree with buying a cheap kit (video below is an example of this) but you’re buying this kit mainly just for the compressor anyway. You will eventually want a better airbrush, but don’t start at the top. start at the bottom and work your way up. With good care, these beginner airbrushes can last a good while. I’ve had mine for over 2 years and they’re used often. I even used it yesterday.

FYI, if you find airbrushing is not for you, just make sure you keep the box it came in and stick it back on eBay for someone else to use. Then it’s cost you next to nothing to give it a go.


2. Some Airbrush Primer

Several Companies do Airbrush primer. As a preference, I like to use Acrylic Primers because they’re easier to work with, they don’t need to be thinned with anything alcohol based, they are easier to clean and you can strip your minis back to bare plastic too If you are unhappy with the output. Which is exactly why I used the Deathwing model in this Stripping miniatures guide. For the beginner Acrylic Primers are perfect.

There are 2 main Primer Brands I recommend;

The first is Vallejo. they have a huge primer range, they are pre-thinned and will spray immediately from the bottle after a good shake. The bottles come in various colours and sizes. 17ml. 60ml and 200ml. Which is great when you are starting out as you can practise with the little bottles to see if you like it before you shell out on a big bottle. As I said above, I’m still using a 60ml bottle I bought back when I first got my airbrush.

Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures


The other brand I recommend and my personal favourite is the lesser known Stynylrez Easy App Surface Primer. Once again this is pre-thinned and comes in a variety of colours and sizes. But I prefer the finish this gives over the Vallejo and the Grey (which is my preference in most cases) is more of a 50% grey (estimate) than Vallejo’s more 25% grey (estimate) which may as well be called Dark White. But this is harder to come by (in the UK at least) and is a bit more expensive. But If more people buy this though they’ll start making more, so if you want to support me in any way, please try some.

Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures

That’s It

Yeah, that’s all you need. £85 for an airbrush and about £8 – £12 for some airbrush primer. Your existing paints will work through your airbrush when they are easily thinned but this is literally everything you need to get started.

Yes, there’s loads of other airbrush stuff, and you can add other things as you go. But this the just the start of your airbrushing journey and this is all you need. 2 things, which is really just the compressor with airbrushes bundled in and some paint, that’s the lot.


Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures –  How to Airbrush

When you get your airbrush kit it’s really simple to assemble, just connect one end of your hose to the obvious outlet on the compressor, connect the other end to the obvious inlet on your airbrush. Plug it in and turn it on.

Turn the dial on top until the pressure gauge reads somewhere between 20-25psi (about 1-1.5 bar). If your paint is a bit thicker you can up it to 30-35psi (about 2-2.5bar)

Pour some water into the cup.

Airbrushes are normally dual action, even these cheapo ones, Press down for air, pull back for paint. the further you push down, the more air comes out, the further you pull back the more paint comes out. Switching up a variety of these actions will give different results, so spray at some paper first. You’ll probably do what I did, just push the hammer all the way down to get all the air coming out, then slowly pull back to release the paint (or water in this case). This is fine, you’ll get better control in time. But this pretty much works for me, even now.

The reason you put water in is to get used to the action and get an idea of how to control it. when you’re ready. Pour or spray the water out and put some drops of paint in. Then spray that. Try it on an old sprue first. Just put some backing down first so you don’t spray your whole desk. A big box will do.

When you are done, clean it, Spray lots of water through it to clean out the inside, If you have some, spray some thinned down IPA through it which you may have bought already after following this paint stripping guide. A ratio of 1:10 IPA to Water will suffice. If you don’t have this, water will do for now. Put a couple of drops of water in the cup, press your finger over the end (where the paint comes out) and slowly push down and pull back the hammer. This will push the air and paint back up through the brush. don’t do it too hard or it will fly out and cover you and your desk, it should just blow bubbles of pain in the water. repeat these steps until it’s running clear both ways.

Next, grab that piece of paper that came in the case with the airbrush, most of the writing is in Chinese or Chinglish (that sounded way more racist than it was meant to, but my spellcheck agrees that its a word). But the picture should show you the parts. You want to take your airbrush apart and understand how to strip it down. There are guides online that will help. Just try to follow the instructions and learn what you can remove vs what you should remove before you start. Or you will do what I did and send a tiny spring flying across the room never to be seen again….. and that’s the story of how I ruined my first airbrush within an hour of owning it.


Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures –  The Optional Extras

Now that you have the beginner kit, let’s have a look of some of the next steps you can take to improve your airbrush experience. As I said above, none of this is necessary, but I’ll discuss the benefits of having each item

Another Airbrush

Yep, as you read the airbrushes you got with your Airbrush Kit are not great, they are cheap, they will do the job for a bit, but your seals won’t last very long, the needle is not great and you are unlikely to do anything more detailed than priming and base-coating with maybe some Zenithal shading or patterns. But you won’t get finer details or paint a whole model with it. It’s time to move up to the £160 airbrush right? No, wrong.

I’m not saying there’s no value from an expensive airbrush, but you don’t need to dive right in, develop some skills first. Use the cheap ones as workhorses so that when you do finally upgrade, these can be the ones that take the beating and you can keep your top tier airbrush clean for your detailed and precision work.

I suppose of all the article here, this bit alone is really the Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures

Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures

I first saw this “0.25mm Gravity Feed Dual-action Airbrush” on Tale of Painters blog and I’ve had 2 of these so far (one is unused I have as a spare). This is a Chinese copy of an expensive Iwata Airbrush. Again it’s made of cheaper material but at 0.25mm it will allow you to practise your precision work. It is a gravity fed dual action airbrush and best of all (at the time of publication) this costs only £15 with some sellers even discounting it as low as £10.

These are great for practising until you want to step up to some more pro kit.

And if you want to juice this up a bit further and get a more professional result from your cheap airbrush, you can’t go wrong by checking out this quick video below


A Better Airbrush

Since posting this article, a lot of people have said, don’t buy cheap, buy quality. I do agree with that in my general purchases. But the point of this article is to show you where to begin. However many people may want to begin with a higher quality Airbrush than a cheap knock-off or generic eBay crap. Fair enough. For a Beginner, nothing I said above is wrong, just get a cheap set off eBay for a compressor with a tank and a couple of generic airbrushes. when you’re ready to move up and get something a little more rigid and ready for detail work, nothing has come more recommended than the Badger 105 Patriot.

This is where things get interesting, unlike you’re generic parts which essentially come as they are and do the job they were made for. Like many of the well-known models, you can actually buy variable parts for this to change things like the nozzle and needle diameter giving you a finer or wider spray. You now have 1 tool that does many jobs instead of many tools that do 1 job each. I would still highly recommend getting a cheap model to get you up to speed with maintenance and cleaning, and whilst you steadily build out your airbrush arsenal with the items below.

A Moisture Trap

With any compressor you can get water from the compressed air, another reason you want a tank with your compressor rather than standalone. I didn’t get a tank and occasionally as you shoot your paint through the built-up moisture can shoot out of the brush, severely diluting the paint and ruining your lovely spray job. This happens mainly when the compressor is used for several minutes and not allowed any time to breathe or the moisture to dissipate. The below simply fits in line with your airbrush to capture the moisture in the line. If you start spraying water, this is what you need.

Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures

More Paints

Quite obvious really, Sure you have the benefit of cheaper primer, but you want at least your base colours down too right, and maybe some of that Zenithal Shading you’ve heard of? Sure, you can buy Citadel Air paints, but you can also just thin down your existing paints instead. There are a lot of ways to do this, including buying yourself some airbrush thinner, but the cheapest and best way is to get some distilled water or ready mixed car screenwash (which is basically distilled water with some cleaner in it). and don’t worry, this won’t tint your paints blue or pink or whatever colour your screenwash is.

The way to thin it is to aim for the properties of milk. I say properties instead of consistency as the consistency isn’t always accurate. Get a glass and put some milk in it (you may have a little glass bottle if you got a syphon fed airbrush in your kit). now pull the milk up the side of the glass, you see how the white of the milk kinds sticks to the walls and very slowly falls away. This is what you want from your paint. Best to go a bit thicker with your paint at first as it’s easier to thin in the airbrush if you need to than thicken it up. If you are spraying and it’s not coming out, just put a drop of Distilled water or screenwash into your airbrush paint cup and swirl it around with a brush to mix it, keep doing this until it’s thin enough. This really isn’t as complicated as it sounds, you’ll nail this quicker than mastering the consistency of thinning for brush painting.

Or, just buy pre-mixed


Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures


Vallejo especially has some great varnishes, I’ve never tried mixing up my own as the Vallejo range works just fine. they come in Matt Satin and Gloss, just make sure to shake them well them before you use them or you won’t get the expected result

Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures

Mixing Pots

As I mentioned above, if you got a syphon fed airbrush in your kit then you probably have a little glass pot. these are great for storing ready thinned paint in. But if you have emptied your Games Workshop paint’s into dropper bottles already then you can also just use the old pots.

I like these glass jars, but the first lot I bought came with no silicone seals so the paint just dried out, pick some up from a reputable seller or be prepared to return them if they sell you crap.

Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures


If you are buying Airbrush paints and want to transfer from a pot to your airbrush then you don’t want to pour it, it will go everywhere. paint which is correctly thinned for an airbrush should be able to be easily moved with a pipette, these will also be useful for moving water and other fluids it drop like quantities to get your mixes right. and they cost next to nothing.

Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures

Dropper Bottles

Vallejo has already got this nailed, your paint goes a long way in an airbrush and you really only want to be putting in a few drops at a time. For anyone using Games Workshop colours, you can easily transfer your paint’s to dropper bottles, which is something I highly recommend.

15ml Dropper Bottles

30ml Dropper Bottles

100ml Dropper Bottles


Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures


Airbrush Cleaner (or DIY Airbrush Cleaner)

Vallejo does an airbrush cleaner too which is cheap enough. Just make sure to do what I didn’t and read the instructions on the label. specifically; dilute 50/50 with water. I didn’t read that and I melted some rubber seals… and that’s the story of how I ruined my second airbrush. This cleaner will pull away bad paint and lubricate the mechanism. Just rinse out most of your unfinished paint with water first and use the cleaner to finish it off and get it squeaky.

You can make your own Airbrush cleaner using Isopropanol and other chemicals/fluid, but I’ve not done that yet. Check Youtube for guides on this.

Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures

Pipe Brushes

Not called Pipe Cleaners anymore because “Pipe Cleaners” is now the name for those bendy things school kids use in crafts. Get a set of these to clean out your airbrush. they are also good for when you’re stripping paint off miniatures.

Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures

Ultrasonic Cleaner

Another useful tool in your hobby armoury, I’ll do another post specifically on these at a later point. but they are great to get those final paint specks off and out of your airbrush, once again. good for stripping paint off miniatures too!


Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures

Airbrush Wash Station

This is a very useful and cheap bit of kit that allows you to stand your airbrush when not in use. This should really be one of your first purchases after you get your Airbrush. It gives you somewhere to spray when you’re cleaning your airbrush out and it saves you wasting tissues as you spray water through to clean it. Just spray into this pot and it will capture all of your sprays without leaving a mess.

Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures


Airbrush Extractor Station

One of the best upgrades you can get is an extractor station When airbrushing, it essentially atomises the paint and other fluids inside your brush. Most will hit the model, some will overspray, but other particles will go into the air where you will likely inhale them. That’s not good for your lungs. This is what you need to both contain the overspray and keep the nasties out of your body.

Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures

A Turntable

To lay down some epic beats whilst you paint, Oh no, that’s a different kind of turntable. A useful bit of kit and my extractor station came with one, it’s much easier to put the model on this and turn the table rather than spray your hand. very useful for your Zenitha shading for pretending to be FatBoySlim, he’s still down with the kids right?

Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures

Particle Mask

If you don’t want to stretch to a full extractor station then the least you can do is pick up a face mask to protect yourself from the particles and airbrush cleaner fumes.

Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures

Masking Equipment

  • Blu-tack
  • Masking putty
  • Tape
  • Sequin Waste
  • Mesh
  • Liquid Mask.

If you want to airbrush multiple colours or try out some effects. There are uses for all these things.


Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures –  Results

Below I have added some pictures of my models before and after I got my Airbrush. In most cases these models have been painted days apart with my brushed models being used as my colour scheme tests and my airbrushed models being the final result. can you see the difference in quality?


This is my practice Dark Angels Space Marine against the Airbrushed version, Fair I used different colours but we are comparing the paint consistency on the armour here. as you can see the airbrushed model looks much smoother with no brush marks

Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures



This is my Space Wolf colour test versus an airbrushed version. I also airbrushed the face with Bugmans glow before I washed it with Reikland Fleshshade.

Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures



Below, I have compared my Primaris marines I’m using for a future blog post, The ultramarine was base-coated with a brush and the shading is glazed on (It’s in progress). This took about 3 hours and about 4 thin coats of blue over a grey primer.

Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures


Here is my new Dark Angels colour scheme. Compared to the Ultramarine above you can see the quality level. Ignore the backpack, I got some excess glue on it. You can see the difference an airbrush makes. This took less than half an hour including priming and recess washing some areas with Agrax Earthsahde. It was painted over a black primer. The base was also painted with an Airbrush using Liberator Gold and washed with Reikland Fleshshade.

Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures

On the back you get a better view of the Zenithal shading, this was 3 colours. The Vallejo Black Primer, Vallejo German Cam Dark green with a Luftwaffe Cam Green highlight.

Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures



The side profile really shows off the Zenithal effect with the shoulder pad. The front and top are in a light green with the rear underneath in a solid black.Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures


Some of you may recognise this guy below from my guide on stripping paint off miniatures, He seemed the perfect model to test out some flesh paint on and the image below shows how much I screwed this up originally. Again about an hour and 3 layers of paint + a wash for the standard brush.



Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures


This took less than 10 minutes to airbrush after priming with the Stynylrez grey surface primer. A layer of Rhinox Hide, then Bugman’s Glow from above. a quick top-level highlight of palid Wych Flesh before lightly washing with Reikland Fleshshade. it’s obviously too Pink still but for a practice, it’s definitely very smooth. I can easily add another layer or two of Palid Wych Flesh before I start to properly shade and glaze in the skin tones. But as you can see all the detail is crisp.Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures


The back shot shows the Zenithal effect again where the inner arch of the back and under the arms is more Rhinox Hide as it is in shadow.Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures


Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures –  TLDR

You may have skimmed the article above so here’s the summary,

You don’t need a top quality compressor or airbrush to get started, just grab an airbrush set which has a compressor and tank from the links below. get one that comes with an airbrush or two. Then get  some primer and you’re good to go. You can get the benefits immediately by saving money on spray cans and airbrush priming your models. Then to save time. lay down some basecoats and shading by thinning your existing paint so it has similar properties to milk.

Airbrush Kit

Airbrush Primer

Vallejo Surface Primer

Stynylrez Syrface Primer


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Looking for Best Beginner Airbrush for Miniatures can be quite daunting, What I have found since is that I didn't need to spend all this time. In the end, my beginner kit was much simpler and much cheaper than I expected.
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1 Comment

  1. I really don’t understand why this article hasn’t been commented yet. Great job, very useful. I’ve been thinking about adquiring an airbrush and a compressor, and this is an incredibly good guide (as usual in this website). It Will help me a lot when I finally decide to buy It. Congratulations, thank you very much and greetings from Spain

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