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All Product Links Below:
- most of the below links are affilaie links, using and of these will generate me a sales comission at no additional cost to you.
Need a UPS for your printer? Check out the Aferiy P210 here: https://geni.us/AferiyP210
RESIN PRINTER BEGINNER GUIDES PLAYLIST: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLngF4BVc8PpGi9_y_kIIl7xIbFPMRMr2H&si=M1K_jDbaVJVOgU0j
*RESIN*
*Wargamer Resin* - The Best Water Washable Resin For Miniatures!!! - https://geni.us/WargamerResin
*GENERAL USAGE*
Read the Instructions! - https://geni.us/WargamerInstructions
*NitrleGloves* - https://geni.us/3DPrinterNitrileGloves
*Standard Scraper* - https://geni.us/StandardScraper
*Plastic Scraper* - https://geni.us/PlasticBladeScraper
*Bladed Scraper* - https://geni.us/BladedScraper
*Dual Plastic+*Metal Scraper* - https://geni.us/PlasticMetalScraper
*Silicone Scraper* - https://geni.us/WhamBamAccessories
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0:00
Right. Then, if you've just gotten a resin printer, are eagerly awaiting delivery, or are still looking to get
0:05
one whilst churning through reviews, hopefully my reviews, it may be worth considering what else you're going to
0:10
need to complement your new tool and make life just that little bit easier. So, this video serves as a comprehensive
0:17
overview of the main accessories worth picking up. This isn't in a priority order. And no, you don't need to buy
0:23
everything in this video, but I have put it into a few sensible categories that kind of follow resin printing through
0:30
the process of you using such machines. And as I write and record this, I'm literally powering through so my editor
0:37
has something to work on as I travel to Form Next 2025 tomorrow, which is in the
0:43
past by the time you watch this. And hopefully you've seen all my interviews with the various manufacturers. and I
0:48
was brave enough to grill them nicely though cuz you know they're still people. Anyway, if not and you're new
0:54
here, hi, I'm Ross and this is Fauxhammer Videos. Okay, so 90% of what
1:00
you need in order to print things comes in the box, coupled with a few online guides. I've got a whole playlist for
1:06
beginners to get you started. So, you should be able to get your printer, pour resin in, slice a model, and get it
1:14
printed. Assuming you got some resin, of course. If you didn't or you need a good resin for miniatures, I'll recommend War
1:20
Gamer Resin by Fauxham Hammer. And yes, that's 3D printed. Shameless plug. But specifically, if you are after printing
1:26
miniatures, although it works for other things, too. This is a water washable resin, but it also hardens to give you
1:33
that plastic-like feel and the durability you're used to for miniatures without a silly amount of flexibility
1:39
that most resin brands think you want. Seriously, why would you want a resin that's so bendy it flexes under the
1:46
pressure of a paintbrush? So yeah, get War Gamer. Sorry it's not cheaper. If we could make it cheaper, we would. But
1:52
after you get some resin, now what? First up is the necessary items for just general usage and handling, which is a
1:59
perfect lead into your most common consumable, gloves. You're going to need a lot of these. You will get some gloves
2:06
with your printer. They'll last you for about 2 to five prints. So before your printer arrives, get yourself a box or
2:12
ideally boxes of nitro gloves. It genuinely terrifies me to still see so
2:17
many people posting pictures on socials handling resin with their bare hands. Resin's toxic. Do not touch it and do
2:25
not get it on your skin. I don't care how bio or water washable the one you've
2:30
got is, keep it off you. And when it comes to water washable resin, this is to be washed in water in order to save
2:37
money on cleaning agents. It's not to go down your sink ever. Again, toxic. Now,
2:44
the next thing you need is a scraper. Many brands have started including halfdecent ones such as any cubic and
2:50
elegu. Nice rubber handles, decently sharp blade. But in lie of one of these, grab something good off Amazon. But I'd
2:57
also recommend getting a bladed scraper like Stanley Blade sharp. There are plastic ones, but these have been
3:03
terrible in my experience. The point of a bladed scraper is so you can slide it easily under the sliver of the edge of
3:11
resin support rafts just to start it to peel away from the plate. Then you can go in with the larger scraper to do the
3:17
rest of the heavy lifting because just chopping at the plate with a large scraper can lead to damage since most
3:23
consumer brands have soft aluminium plates. And most printers now also come with a softer plastic scraper or in the
3:30
better cases, a silicon scraper. This isn't for the build plate. This is for cleaning the bottom of your vat where
3:36
your clear release film is. Using a metal scraper here can damage the film, which will then in turn affect your
3:42
prints, or you could even pierce it, potentially screwing your entire printer with a big resin leak. Another important
3:49
tool, which is less frequently included with printers, is a funnel. You can get plastic ones, expandable silicon ones,
3:56
but I'd recommend what will be the first of many tools in this list from Wham Bam. One of their Ultim 8 tools, a
4:02
collection, which also includes an Ultim 8 scraper. There's the Ultim 8. Okay,
4:07
sick of this pronunciation now, and I'm sure you are too. Their Ultimate Funnel. So, there's the Ultimate Scraper, the
4:13
Ultimate Funnel, and some Ultimate other things. But their funnel isn't Amazon or AliExpress crap. It is a premium funnel
4:20
with a fluted nozzle and interior allowing for smooth resin flow because with the flutes the air can actually
4:26
escape. And it's also wide enough to hold a solid quantity of resin too which is handy since many brands still have
4:32
absolutely terrible pore spouts on their vats. And it's also good to have some resin filters which will ensure no cured
4:39
chunks end up back in the bottle for reasons I'm about to come on to. It's $13 instead of three, but it's easily
4:46
worth it. The next thing to have handy is some vat cleaning tools. Resin print fails are common, and in many cases,
4:53
you'll end up with resin stuck to your vat rather than the plate, or more concerning, chunks of cured resin. If
4:59
you ignore these, then on your subsequent print, the plate lowering can drive those chunks through your release
5:05
film and even onto your screen, again, leading to leaks or physical damage. Now, most printers now have a tank
5:12
cleaning function, which simply exposes the full LCD, creating a thin cured
5:17
layer on your release film, bonding it to any loose, settled chunks, and also fusing it to any parts that got stuck to
5:24
the film instead of the plate. Now, after doing this, you could get some gloves on, empty the vat, and then peel
5:30
this thin layer away with your fingers. But what's more commonly done is to just place some cured resin with a flat base
5:36
in the vat before running the cleaning tool. And most people use some old discardable support material from
5:42
previous prints, but that gives you a way to adhere something to that cured layer and then pull that layer out. You
5:49
can also purposefully print tools that offer this function, but I honestly think that's a waste of good resin that
5:55
you could use for models since support material will do the same job. But again, just to give Wham a shout out,
6:02
they do offer a vat cleaning tool. So if you're buying other stuff, then why not chuck one of these in? Honestly though,
6:08
that's just a shout out to them because it exists. I haven't used it because again, resin supports are free. Now,
6:15
whilst I'm talking about Wamb, they are most famous for their flex plates, which are basically bits of thin magnetic
6:21
metal that adhere to your normal build plate. This does make it incredibly easy to remove prints from the plate because
6:28
you simply demagnetize this by pulling it off and then flex the plate to remove the support rafts and then slide the
6:34
prints off. The same sort of thing we have in FDM printing as standard, but we don't get it in many resin printers for
6:41
one reason. If you're one of the very lucky people out there to have enough finances behind you to afford something
6:47
like a Formlabs form 4, then you'll see that you can actually get a flexible build plate on their machines. Not as
6:54
standard, but it's a very commonly bought accessory which is directly available. However, Formlabs being who
7:00
they are and one of the grandfathers of resin printing, let's be fair, us lowly consumers are the new kids on the block.
7:07
But Formlabs have, and probably rightly, it can be argued either way, they have
7:12
patented a lot of the design principles that they came up with. Kind of like how
7:17
Ford are the only cars with the technology allowed to electronically defrost front windscreens. But I'm led
7:23
to believe, I'm not 100%, I'm led to believe by many commenters that because of Formlab's patent on this, you can't
7:30
actually get this direct from manufacturers. But that doesn't stop companies like Wham Bam producing it as
7:36
an aftermarket add-on. Now, honestly, again, I've not used many of these. And in some cases, for modern printers that
7:43
have pressure sensing or tilting vats, they can, unless you inject some code,
7:48
cause some problems with the mechanics of how the printers operate. But Wam Bam have guides to get around a lot of these
7:54
things on their website. I can certainly see the convenience of them, but for me, I have a lot of experience in resin
8:01
printing. I know how to dial in my base layers, so things stick very well, but don't stick too much that I struggle to
8:07
remove them. Again, I've got videos on all this stuff. Check the playlist. But I can see the convenience of it. So
8:13
perhaps it's something you want to try out. Again, links in the description. Moving on. Something else you'll need
8:18
lots of, and I probably should have talked about this with gloves, is paper towels. You'll need a lot of these to
8:24
deal with general spills and drips, but don't bin these when they're spoiled,
8:29
and I'll explain why shortly. And finally, in this section, to clean the remaining liquid resin off your models,
8:35
you're going to want a cleaning liquid. Now, there are special detergents, and I've never used them, and there's also
8:41
water washable resins, which when it comes to War Gamer, I recommend. And it's genuinely with zero arrogance that
8:48
I can say most water washables are incredibly brittle and generally crap.
8:53
Ask anyone who's used one or check the comment section if you've used one and you think I'm right. Validate me please
8:59
for the sake of other people reading the comments to confirm I'm not talking Anyway, moving on. The most common
9:06
wash solution is isopropyl alcohol, also known as isopropanol or iso. Now, I've
9:13
said a few times that I actually prefer methylated spirits. In the US and other local, you'll find this as denatured
9:20
alcohol. In the UK, it's usually purple, but you can buy a clear odelless
9:25
version. But in order to get this now, you actually need to apply for a license from the government. It wasn't too hard.
9:31
It's free to do. I got one easy enough. And I get my stuff from industrial plasterers.co.uk.
9:37
And they actually linked me to the aforementioned form that you need to fill out to apply for this. Anyway, if
9:42
you aren't in the UK, check this out on that site so you can at least understand what it is and get the same stuff
9:48
wherever you're from if you can. But yeah, now is actually a very good time to go straight into and talk about
9:54
safety equipment. For example, those two liquids I just mentioned, they're highly flammable, even the vapors. So, make
10:01
sure you read the warnings properly and store them appropriately. And when you're using it, also follow the usage
10:08
guides. But another thing to be aware of, as I said, is fumes. Not just from these, but also from the exothermic
10:14
reaction of the resin itself curing. Now, I'm still waiting for an authority
10:20
to actually and accurately confirm what particular dangers are in these things,
10:25
but in lie of that, let's assume it's not good stuff. And air on the side of caution. Get it? Air. Okay, I can hear
10:33
the groan. So, the easiest way to deal with this is to get a resin printer enclosure. I've actually got a separate
10:40
video on these that basically says get the cheapest one you can get that your printer or even your whole printing
10:45
setup will fit in. And ideally, use the included vent to push fumes out of a
10:50
nearby window. Or do what I did and have a 100 mm hole drilled in your wall and fit an extractor vent like the ones used
10:57
for tumble dryers. Now, me, this is my job reviewing these printers. So, I've
11:03
got dedicated vents and on top of that, I've even paid seven grand to have a HVAC, a heat exchanger system installed
11:11
by a company called Island HVAC systems in Bullwall Nottingham. If you're local and you want this same sort of thing,
11:17
check them out. They do aircon, too. And air con's currently cheap in the UK. You get it back free because it's a heat
11:23
exchanger. Anyway, I'll have a whole video on what a HVAC is and how it works very soon. It'll just be a quick one,
11:29
but yeah, a few people wanted to see it. Anyway, watch the enclosure videos and subscribe so you don't miss the HVAC
11:36
video. I'll do that one over Christmas when printer releases get quiet. Now, in lie of one of these, or ideally as well
11:42
as one of these, you probably want to get a chemical rated ventilation mask that filters out fumes when working
11:48
directly with resin just to be extra safe. And another good idea, just as part of your general safety setup,
11:55
goggles to prevent eye contamination. and ideally a chemicalresistant apron to
12:00
keep it off your clothes. I don't care what they look like. It's better than getting crap all over your outfit.
12:07
Besides, people like Vince Vinterella have managed to pull it off and made an entire character out of it. Though, at
12:13
the same time, other creators have made themselves look like pretentious wankers by wearing one. So, whatever. I think
12:19
they're good for safety. Decide for yourself. Now, most people seem to not bother with any of this equipment, but
12:25
it really is down to your own personal safety concerns. Like I said, we really don't know how bad this resin stuff
12:31
really is. So, you decide how much of a risk you want to take. Remember,
12:36
cigarettes and radon were awesome at one point in time. Now, you'll probably see some brands have started releasing
12:42
filters. We actually had a small one that goes inside printers and they're kind of crap, but they do at least do
12:48
something to reduce the fumes whilst circulating the air that's inside the chamber. But then brands like Eligu
12:54
released the Mars Mate, which sucks the air out of the chamber, gives it one pass over a large carbon block and then
13:00
blows it into your room. So when I tested this, I actually had fewer VOCC's registering in my room when not using
13:07
this than with it on. Wild. Now, Heyge Gears are also releasing the green
13:13
print. I've got one. I've had it a while, but I'm awaiting some updates from Heygears so they can finalize it
13:19
before I can release my review. And yeah, I'm excited to release that review for probably obvious reasons. You can
13:26
see what it is on the website. Anyway, Pio or Creality at the time of writing this have also advised me they're
13:32
sending a filter too, and I'll get to that shortly, but nothing so far beats pumping these fumes outside. And on that
13:39
point, the only brand I've seen so far with a real solution is Any Cubic with their AirPure 2.0. This is a hose with
13:47
an inline fan that connects directly to any cubic printers since their M7 range.
13:52
But the brand also offers various printable accessories to make it compatible with other machines, too,
13:58
including different brands. Just be aware that with any of these where you're venting out of a window, be
14:04
conscious of using printers directly next to windows or left in direct sunlight because UV in sunlight can cure
14:12
your resin before you want it to. Okay, so that's a safer resin setup. It gets us as far as getting stuff printed and
14:19
now we're prepared to move on. We now need to actually work with the resin model. So beyond the basics of scrapers
14:25
that we covered, we want some cleaning equipment. One of the first things I'd recommend is a silicon workmat. For
14:32
years, I've just used Amazon Basics dog food mats, but now I have the one from Wham Bam, which is much thicker and
14:38
clearly more premium. The TLDDR is that this is made for printers, whereas the other ones I just mentioned are made
14:44
for, well, you can guess, but an extension of these, something I've found
14:49
to be incredibly useful, is some silicon baking trays. Just check my links below
14:54
because these will look different in different regions, but they're basically like the mats, but they have a rigid
15:00
frame. These are ideal for carrying models from place to place. And since the advent of brands releasing machines
15:06
with stupid build plates that hold resin, I've just started placing these trays over my vat as I use my bladed
15:13
scraper then large scraper to remove the models whilst the build plate stays attached. Yes, this is risky. I could
15:20
end up with chunks of resin in my vat, which I said earlier is bad. But to avoid dealing with all that drippy resin
15:27
going everywhere, this is a risk I'm willing to take. Now, washing your printed models. It's great that we've
15:33
already talked about a wash liquid, but you need something to put it in. And we'll get on to wash and cure system
15:39
shortly because if you're on a budget, then yeah, you can very slowly cure a
15:45
print in sunlight. But for washing, and even if you do get a washing cure, I'd get a couple of large pickle jars. I
15:51
actually use two. And I pre-wash my cured models in one then the other before moving them into my cleaner. And
15:58
doing this keeps that larger volume of fluid cleaner for much longer. In my case, and remember, resin printing is my
16:05
job. It's kept it clean for over 18 months in the largest vat. I only ever empty out these small jars when they
16:12
clearly get too contaminated and aren't pulling the resin off very well. So, yeah, I'd at least get a couple of
16:17
these. The bigger the better, but obviously whatever you have space for. Another useful tool in this area is a
16:24
spritz or spray bottle. And this is handy for dislodging stubborn liquid resin with water pressure. But forget
16:30
your silicon mat. You're going to need a deep tray or a bucket to wash into to prevent overspray. But now, wash and
16:37
cure stations. Look, I'm not going to cover a bunch of different brands and do a quick comparison of all the different
16:43
ones here. I've got some reviews, but I don't do more because I'll be honest,
16:48
they bore me. For the most part, these all do the same thing. Typically, a tub with a magnetic impeller creates a
16:54
cyclone of your cleaning agent to wash the resin off after a quick rinse in the aforementioned pickle jars, of course.
17:00
And then the cure station is just a spinning acrylic plate and some UV LEDs. The more you pay, the bigger the unit
17:07
tends to be. Any Cuba and Eligu make cheap doable machines. Frozen probably
17:12
makes the best. They're either top of the mid tier or bottom of the top tier, but they do make good lasting hobbyist
17:17
models in terms of size and build quality. Some fun ones to call out include Heyge Gears. The wash station
17:24
that smashes your models together is simply overengineered and laughable. But
17:30
their cure station is glorious. It's big. It opens at the front, which means you can stand things on top, something
17:36
that you can't do on other stations, so it saves on space, and it includes built-in curing profiles for their own
17:43
materials. But boy is it expensive. The same thing with Formlabs. And of course, at the price, these are awesome, but it
17:50
is Formlabs wash station that again, simply incredible. Now, I doubt anyone here would pay how much they want for
17:56
this because it costs more than most consumer printers. And I actually have a preferred solution over this. Anyway,
18:03
another one I have to call out because you need to avoid it is the Any Cubic Wash and Cure Max. Now, this was a good
18:09
idea. It's kind of like a dishwasher for your prints, but you need to avoid it for the reasons you'll see in my full
18:16
review. And equally though, I didn't actually review it. I told the brand it was stupid when they sent me the
18:22
prototype. And that's Uniformations Wash Ultra. They don't even sell it anymore,
18:27
which I think tells us enough. My favorite cleaner though is Uniformation. It's their ultrasonic cleaner. There are
18:34
however some potential risks with ultrasonic cleaners because I've had many people say that they can cause a
18:40
lot of vapors. And again, isopropanol vapors are very flammable. What many
18:45
people do and what I'm going to do soon when I replace this with a larger, more powerful actual dedicated ultrasonic
18:52
cleaner is to fill said cleaner with water and then put the parts in a clear
18:58
sealable bag with isopropanol inside. Drop that into the water and this keeps
19:03
the ISO and the vapors contained whilst benefiting from using the ultrasonic cleaner that really does get deep into
19:10
the recesses because it uses vibrations to clean. But speaking of those plastic
19:15
sealable bags, do you remember earlier when I said not to bin your soil tissue? Well, it's the same with gloves. Liquid
19:22
resin can't be disposed of in the trash like everyday rubbish. Not in its liquid state anyway. Now, once it's cured, it's
19:29
all good. So, what I recommend you do is put your mucky crap in clear bags, seal
19:35
them, and then cure them in a cure station or somewhere safe out in the sunlight before disposal. Okay. Now,
19:41
some quick modeling tools since you also need to remove the supports. One thing I found with support removal is that
19:47
softening your resin really helps. This is another benefit of methylated spirits over ISO. Just a 20 to 30 minute soak,
19:55
and most optimized supports will just peel away. And this also lets me peel
20:00
away my supports before the model has a final cure. Again, that final cure is going to harden the resin. So, before
20:07
the cure is the better time to remove them. Now, another trick is to use hot water. But doing this before curing
20:14
means you can contaminate the water slightly, which means disposal comes back to precuring resin traces in clear
20:20
bags before you get rid of it at a waste facility or in the bin, not down the
20:26
drain. Now, the hotter the water the better, but you obviously risk scolding yourself if it's too hot. So, don't
20:33
scold yourself. It's kind of weird in 2025 that water doesn't come with a warning that says caution hot. I wonder
20:40
if I consume my tap. Anyway, another way to remove supports is just use clippers.
20:45
Manufacturers do send you some crap ones with printers, but you probably want to use these over the sort of fine clippers
20:52
that you'd use on plastic models. I'm talking about things like Godhand or DSP IAE. Resin is just too hard and you can
21:00
damage those finer blades. The problem with clippers is that again, they can
21:05
often cause resin to crack because it it's brittle. Now, a better tool, though
21:10
many are unwieldy due to the size, are ultrasonic knives. I've shown the hand boost on my channel before, and this
21:17
slides through most materials like butter, including your skin. Very good, but use with caution. Beyond this, you
21:24
also need to potentially fill gaps or smooth out the few inevitable voxal or layer lines that you are going to get on
21:30
3D prints. Now, for gap filling, this is easy. Get some UV putty and a UV torch.
21:36
Again though, using sensible eyewear that blocks UV is ideal, too. I'm saying again, but I I cut that out the earlier
21:43
part of the video. Use UV blocking eyewear if you're ever looking directly at or reflections of UV light, which
21:50
which is what happens when the printer shines. Anyway, UV putty can be molded
21:56
into gaps and then cured with a UV torch. And you can also get mini UV
22:01
torches for curing the inside of hollowed models, too. And this can be handy, but honestly, I've I've never
22:07
used one. Beyond that though, a variety of sanding and finishing tools is handy. I've got several DSPA tools, which I
22:15
highly recommend for my time with Gunpla models. These include sanding sponges, a rotary grinder, an electronic mini
22:21
sander, and these are all to prep prints. Though, honestly, as printers and modelers who make models improve,
22:28
I'm finding I'm needing these less and less. And I've also still found no better glue than super glue for fixing
22:35
resin prints together. For larger models, I have used two-part epoxy glues, but these can be hit or miss. So,
22:41
I mostly just use the small tubes of Gorilla Glue because larger tubes normally end up with the lid stuck to
22:47
the nozzle before I've used half of it. And then for anyone who wants to paint their models, things like airbrushes,
22:53
which includes stuff like a compressor, spray booth, along with a variety of paints and brushes, is also handy. Now,
23:00
I often do some contract work for artist opus, so I'm going to recommend their tools and now paints because it's what I
23:07
use. As for an airbrush, if you're a beginner, get a harder and steambeck ultra and just get a compressor with a
23:13
tank that you can find on Amazon. If you want something a bit better, you can also get the Evolution. And the Infiniti
23:19
is really amazing, but it's overkill. I typically recommend Harder and Steambeck over any other airbrush brand for the
23:26
same reason I recommend most printers because they're more convenient to use, maintain, take apart, put back together
23:33
without losing components or your will to live. Also, they do a cult of paint one, which is a channel I've always
23:41
loved, and also the other partner of Artist Opus on their paints. So, yeah, I
23:48
like them. I want to support those guys. Oh crap, I'm influencing rather than giving critical opinion. Get what you
23:55
want. I like these. If you want the things I like, get get them. Woo woo.
24:01
Artist hope has caught the paint. Get their brushes. Get their paints. Anyway, finally, here's some extras worth
24:06
considering. Now, it's not a wild idea to have a spare resin bat for your printer on hand at all times. If you've
24:13
got an issue with a release film, it's much better to have a replacement ready to go rather than delay your project as
24:18
you try to will yourself to go through the arduous process of release film replacement, which can take upwards of
24:24
30 minutes. Unless, of course, you're one of the magical people in my comment section who claim they can do it in
24:29
five. Now, this sort of time is possible without the some people spout just to heckle me. Because if you are
24:36
thinking about getting a spare VA, another reason to do this would be to have one with ACF film for speed and
24:42
another with PFA film for quality. And if you don't know what they are or the differences between them, either Google
24:48
it or watch any of my reviews from the last year where the printer uses ACF, specifically any of the Any Cubic
24:55
reviews such as the M7 or M5. But anyway, if you are thinking of getting a second VAT, then you need to check out
25:02
if your printer has a Hoopat from Chu Systems. Yes, it's a stupid name. You've
25:07
probably heard me say that before, and I'll keep saying it until they change it. Now, this VAT doesn't work like
25:13
others. Instead of tons of screws, this has got retention clips holding on the base frame, and that frame has little
25:19
pegs holding onto the release film. So, this does mean you can replace your release film in just a few minutes after
25:26
cleaning out the bat. Of course, it's an absolute genius addition to our hobby that lessens the pain of a frustrating
25:33
job. But unfortunately, CH2 systems haven't supported a lot of modern printers. The ones that we really are
25:39
desperate for are both the Uniformation GK3 machines and the Any Cubic M7s, but
25:45
that may have changed depending on when you're watching this video. So check out their website for more information. Now
25:51
something else to consider if your printer doesn't include one as standard is a resin heater. And if it does have
25:56
one as standard, check how it works and whether it's optimal. Now if you're new,
26:02
you may not know that resin is cured best at optimal temperatures. Usually between 25 and 35° C and more for some
26:10
engineering materials. If it's too cold, it becomes more viscous and it can require more energy. So therefore,
26:16
overcuring in order to give you a successful print. Overcuring leads to bloating and increased brittleleness.
26:23
And I still see a lot of people say, "I live in a hot climate. I'm fine." Which could be true for some people. I'm not
26:28
trying to tell anyone they're wrong. Just be aware that unless your resin is at a consistent temperature throughout
26:35
the print, that can still lead to print issues and inconsistencies in the result. Now, it may be 30 plus° all day
26:42
where you live, but still drop to sub 10 in your garage, shed, basement, or attic
26:47
when the printer's running at night. So, a chamber heater like one from Chitty Systems can be handy. And if you've got
26:54
an enclosure like I mentioned earlier, you can also use a smaller environment heater to keep that whole thing warm.
27:01
But just be aware, these things are DIY, so be conscious of fire safety. And if
27:06
you're using one of these enclosures and venting, maybe only enable the fan when the print is done and before you open
27:13
the enclosure or you're just venting all of your hot air. Another small point is
27:18
keep hold of old resin bottles and cleaning liquid bottles because you'll never know when these come in handy as
27:24
waste containers. But finally, release films and screens. Have spares. Release
27:29
films is obvious because they can break and often wear. Now, I try to maximize
27:34
the life of my films and only really replace them if they get damaged or are so frosty or dented, it actually affects
27:41
my prints. Screens, though, again, something many beginners don't know is that screens on resin printers are
27:48
classed as consumables, like batteries in laptops or phones. The process of using these screens to push UV light
27:54
through degrades them fast. And because of this, it's always handy to have at least one spare on hand. And this is
28:02
doubly true, especially for some printers, because brands have historically stopped providing parts
28:08
long before they should, and in some cases, even within a year of the products release. Thankfully, that
28:15
doesn't happen as much now. But if you're still considering what printer to buy, well, first check out my best resin
28:21
printers of 2025 2026 video. But as I said in that, before buying any printer,
28:27
go and look up the screen replacement process on YouTube. If you expect your printer to last you a while, you might
28:33
want to see what you're in for before buying one. Because for some brands, it's a full tear down, whereas others
28:39
just need a few screws and a cable plugging in. Okay, that's it. Have I
28:45
missed anything? I really hope not, because if I have, I'm going to need to do this all over again. Please let me
28:50
know your favorite resin tools and accessories down in the comments section. If I've missed anything, yeah,
28:57
make me feel like crap. Put that there, too. You're going to find a variety of affiliate and non-affiliate links to
29:02
everything I've mentioned here in order down in the description along with the videos I mentioned for more info on
29:09
specific machines or accessories or details I've gone on to. Clicking any of those affiliate links will net me a
29:15
commission at no cost to you. That is mostly how I fund this channel. Now, don't forget if you're new, this video
29:22
is now part of my beginner resin printer playlist. So, check out that for more info and to get you up to speed with
29:28
what you need to know and get you resin printing as fast as possible. I want to finish by saying thanks for watching
29:34
with a huge thanks going out to our members who are on screen now. Please consider joining them to get your name
29:39
in lights along with exclusive videos, Discord rolls, and early access. Until next time, see you. I'm off to form next
29:47
in like 6 hours, which you probably already know because those videos came out before this one. Go and watch them.
29:54
F hammer out. [Music]