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i get a load of messages every week and
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they tend to fall into one of two camps
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either I just got a new resin printer
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and everything keeps failing or I've had
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my printer a while and suddenly
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everything keeps failing yet there's
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nothing in between it's like printers
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have a grace period and then
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spontaneously develop a trauma and these
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messages nearly always come with the
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same attachments pictures of the exact
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same kind of failure or screenshots of
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slicer settings I've seen more times
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than I can count and weirdly the
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problem's usually obvious once you've
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seen it enough so I hope this video
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helps you but if it doesn't help you
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then well at least it'll help me because
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now when someone asks me again I can
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just paste them this link to avoid
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rewriting it for the teenth time so
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let's crack on hi I'm Ross this is
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Fammer Videos and all of that's obvious
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because you can see the channel name
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below the video now if you've got a
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resin printer one of the first things
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you're told is to dial in your exposure
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time and my last video covered exactly
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that and yes I prefer to aim for print
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success first and accuracy second
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because if it doesn't print at all who
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cares how accurate it might have been
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but yeah what happens if you're getting
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the prints that start great and the base
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layers stick the supports are going
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strong but then out of nowhere your
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model looks like it's lost a jewel with
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a guillotine halfway through printing
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now in my experience over 95% of the
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time I've helped someone with this the
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answer is one specific setting okay
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actually it's two all right fine it's 16
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we're talking about lift height and lift
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speed yes just those two but also the
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variations for base layer normal layer
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lift retract yeah so it's 16 in total
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and I'm sorry but fix your printer with
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these 16 settings just doesn't make a
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clickable video so I do what I have to
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do look hate the player not the game all
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right fine hate the player i probably
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deserve it anyway let's talk about
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what's happening most of us know resin
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printing works by curing layers of resin
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stuck to the build plate and then after
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that stuck to the previous layer the
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release film at the bottom the FAP NFAP
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ACF whatever the release film is called
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is designed to be optically clear and
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not hold onto the resin you want your
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cured layer to stick to the plate or
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last layer not the film so as the bed
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lifts the cured resin peels off the film
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if it lifts too fast it can actually
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yank the print apart if the lift height
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is too low the resin doesn't
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successfully separate from the film and
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you don't create a proper gap for fresh
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resin to flow into so the next layer's
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got nowhere to go and when the release
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film finally does disconnect you've
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basically created a void in your model
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and that's where the tear begins now
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here's the sneaky bit and why it doesn't
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always happen on new machines and why it
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often creeps in after a few weeks or
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months is because your release film has
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started to stretch more than likely in
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the middle and why the middle well
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because that's where every slicer drops
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the models by default but again that's
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also furthest from the edge so it
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doesn't really matter how many models
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you've got on there but they will
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stretch from the edges to the center the
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point is as your film wears you're more
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likely to get these kinds of failures
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and if you're printing a full plate edge
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to edge then surface tension gets
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stronger because you're pulling away a
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much larger cured area all at once but
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how do we fix it well the simple answer
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is you slow down your lift speeds and
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you increase your lift height not
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dramatically sensibly now most modern
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printers have something called two-stage
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motion control or TSMC if yours doesn't
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I probably hate it deeply passionately
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except when I don't but we'll come back
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to those two examples later so TSMC
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lifts the bed in quite obviously two
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stages first slowly to gently peel the
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layer away from the edges then faster to
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clear the space and let new resin flow
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in and it's the same deal in reverse
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where the bed lowers or retracts fast
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until it gets close and then slow to
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ease the model back towards the screen
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now Eligu's new satellite slicer
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actually has a great pop-up graphic
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showing this as a visual when you select
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each setting i just wish it were larger
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so you could actually read the text and
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know what each of the stages represents
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but anyway once you understand what it
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does the motion control settings make
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obvious sense and you shouldn't ignore
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them due to complexity it's actually
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pretty simple just a bit convoluted and
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the reason there are 16 settings is
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because well okay you've got two sets of
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eight lift distance for stages one and
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two with corresponding lift speeds for
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those two stages that's four settings
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and retract is exactly the same but in
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reverse so another four settings makes
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eight but this is also copied between
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base layers and normal layers so there's
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your 16 now you could have faster speeds
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for normal layers sure but do I bother
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honestly no more often than not I just
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match them i'm not chasing speed i'm
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dialing in for success now for anybody
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asking for the TLDDR or get to the point
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here's a screenshot of the settings I
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use on 6 in 10in and 13-in printers
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these aren't gospel but they're a bloody
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good starting point and I know people
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will scream in the comments "That's too
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slow that's too high." Yeah I know
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you're not wrong but these settings
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haven't failed me on a single printer
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I've tested and if they ever have it's
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not because of the settings it's
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typically because the release film is
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just a bit worn out so when that happens
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I just bump the lift height up by 1 mm
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for each stage and carry on and when it
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comes to speeds I typically set the
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stage 1 lift speed to 60 mm a minute
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because that's the same as 1 mm/s
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easy then stage two goes up in multiples
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of 60 mm a minute because that's equal
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to how many millm a second it is again
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just because it's tidy and makes the
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math simple there's no magic behind it
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just habits and logic in my head that
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make it work but anyway the point is you
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should now understand what these
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settings do and why these problems arise
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so feel free to tweak them and if you've
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got suggestions drop them in the
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comments that's going to help other
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people who come here looking for advice
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let's be fair you as a community are
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probably much smarter than me but in
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fairness an individual being smarter
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than me isn't a high bar anyway a quick
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note before we wrap yes this video was
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sponsored by Eligu i explained how all
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that works in the last video so I'm not
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going to repeat myself but keep in mind
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if you are using the Mars 5 Ultra or the
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Saturn 4 Ultra those printers actually
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use tilting bat so you don't have these
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settings if you do get issues like we've
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shown here I don't want you to feel like
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this was a pointless video for you so in
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that case just switch your printer's
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tilt mechanism from fast mode to slow
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mode in the UI and that should help but
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I would love to see a future version of
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this mechanism that both tilts and lifts
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and retracts that would be absolutely
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glorious and if you're still having a
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problem like this well it could be layer
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compression in which case we need to
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look at weight speeds but that'll be
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another video assuming Eligu continue to
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sponsor me but anyway if you've seen
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someone with this issue please share the
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video with them it might help them and
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it'll definitely help me because more
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views means more content like this which
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we both want right anyway I want to say
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thanks for watching and our members are
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on screen now please consider joining
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for early access Discord rolls and other
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nonsense from me until next time this is
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the beginning of a beautiful friendship
