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Buy your printers here (Alphabetical Order)
Anycubic Photon D2 - https://geni.us/PhotonUltra
Amazon - https://geni.us/AnycubicPhotonD2
Anycubic Photon Mono 2 - Anycubic - https://geni.us/PhotonMono2
Amazon - https://geni.us/AnycubicPhotonMono2
Anycubic Photon Mono X 6k S - https://geni.us/MonoX6Ks
Amazon - https://geni.us/AnycubicMonoX6kS
Anycubic Photon Mono M5 - https://geni.us/PhotonM5
Amazon - https://geni.us/AnycubicPhotonMonoM5
Anycubic Photon Mono M5s - https://geni.us/PhotonM5s
Amazon - https://geni.us/AnycubicPhotonMonoM5s
Elegoo Mars 3 Pro -https://shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2183270&u=3060349&m=104244&urllink=&afftrack=
Amazon - https://amzn.to/3M3Mw45
Elegoo Mars 4 - https://shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2351049&u=3060349&m=104244&urllink=&afftrack=
Amazon - https://amzn.to/48WLaC0
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0:00
I've spent the last year looking at all
0:01
of the top resin printers on the market
0:03
there are some good ones and
0:04
unfortunately some bad ones but right
0:07
now at the start of the new year I want
0:08
to look to the future I really want to
0:10
just go on a journey of imagination we
0:13
have all these great printers but what
0:14
will the future bring what should the
0:16
future bring and I'd love to hear your
0:18
thoughts too what do you want am I right
0:20
am I wrong please drop your thoughts
0:22
down in the comments section as I plan
0:23
to use them in future videos at the very
0:26
least I hope this will serve as a wakeup
0:28
call for the brands out there making
0:30
these printers it should also make it
0:32
easy for someone new to have a point of
0:34
reference a list of boxes they should
0:36
tick if they want to create the world's
0:38
next leading consumer resin printer so
0:41
let's get on with making things easy for
0:43
the printer brands by telling them what
0:45
we want hi I'm Ross and this is f Hammer
0:51
videos so for the format of this video I
0:53
want to go through all the different
0:54
features and functions of a printer and
0:56
talk about who's given us the best as a
0:58
springboard for what we want going going
1:00
forward and I was going to end with the
1:02
style of the printer once going through
1:03
all of the different features we'd
1:05
finish on the housing to put this all in
1:07
but in reflection if I'm watching this
1:09
I'd kind of want to be able to picture
1:11
it in my mind up front so when choosing
1:13
the style of the best 3D printer out
1:15
there I'd like to take some massive
1:17
design cues from the hay Gear's
1:19
ultracraft reflex I mean this is an easy
1:22
pick surely the machine is gorgeous but
1:26
beyond that there are a ton of
1:27
functional elements in its form factor
1:29
too I mean I don't know anybody who
1:32
likes lift off Lids except maybe the few
1:34
people who use their printers in a print
1:35
farm and never have the lids on anyway
1:38
because they just keep the whole place
1:39
at room temperature there have been a
1:42
few other printers with liftup lids but
1:44
the two which come to mind most recently
1:46
are the Frozen Mega 8ks and the Nova 3D
1:49
whale 3 whilst the Frozen model has a
1:51
nice strong hinge mechanism that keeps
1:53
the lid in place as you lift it or lower
1:55
it both printers suffer from the rais
1:58
lid protruding out the back meaning
1:59
meaning you need your printer a good
2:01
distance away from the
2:02
wall the gk2 has a lift up lid but the
2:05
hinges are a bit weak and the rear
2:07
chassis curves a good 2/3 around the
2:09
sides as it covers around the build area
2:12
the reflexes lid is both angled and
2:15
hinged in such a way that it clears
2:17
plenty of space for accessing the
2:18
printer's internals whilst only taking
2:21
up additional height in your workspace
2:23
rather than empty depth too but yeah in
2:26
taking up height they would lose a lot
2:28
of customers in those forementioned
2:30
print Farms who just don't have that
2:32
height spare so however it's done design
2:35
the lid mechanism in such a way that
2:37
with only a few screws or such you could
2:39
swap this mechanism over to a lid which
2:42
can be removed entirely by just pulling
2:44
it towards you and away from the machine
2:46
but it's not just the functional feature
2:48
of that design either the visual style
2:50
of the machine and the materials all
2:52
feel robust and solid even the colorway
2:55
makes this come across as a more
2:56
professional tool than the Cheapo
2:58
plasticky of more affordable models like
3:01
most elegu and any cubic machines I do
3:04
wish however the lid was more
3:05
translucent because it's hard to see
3:07
inside this one and I also wish it was a
3:09
brighter orange what it matches my
3:12
branding of course I want a metallic
3:13
gray and orange printer when we look
3:16
inside the machine the next thing I want
3:17
to talk about is the build plate when it
3:19
comes to this component adherence is key
3:22
and I suspect many people would want me
3:23
to say they should come with a magnetic
3:25
build plate now I do see the benefit in
3:28
this where at the manufact ERS who
3:30
installed them in such a way that would
3:32
ensure that they won't come un stock but
3:35
I see so many issues with people self
3:37
installing third party ones that they
3:40
make me nervous to the point that I'm
3:42
not going to try them but as I said I do
3:45
see the benefit that you can easily pop
3:47
these off and the flex will allow you to
3:49
break models base layers away much
3:51
easier now personally I don't care if
3:53
this build surface is textured or even
3:55
laser etch like the satin printers or
3:58
smooth like on the gk2 once you've got
4:00
your base layers dialed in properly you
4:02
should have no adherence issues during
4:04
print and no over adherence after a
4:06
print though got to consider everyone
4:09
and if a bill play isn't smooth you'll
4:11
end up with some texture and that could
4:12
put off some buyers who do resin print
4:15
direct from the plate rather than
4:16
support models so I guess yeah if done
4:19
right I would like to see removable
4:21
flexible surfaces properly integrated
4:23
into printers perhaps in a variety of
4:25
styles and textures like on fdm printers
4:28
it could be cool if they add this I just
4:31
hope it includes some kind of Notch for
4:33
easy one-handed alignment the other
4:35
thing I want to talk about here is the
4:36
shape of the build plate because so far
4:39
only uniformation made a build plate
4:41
that combats this and that's a build
4:42
plate that keeps the top out of the vat
4:45
and yeah the gk2 plate may look heavy
4:47
and clunky but it's actually quite light
4:49
because well it's plastic but I'm sick
4:51
of having to wait every time a print is
4:53
complete for the resin to run off the
4:55
plate or to need to scrape it off myself
4:57
before I can move the plate to my
4:58
workbench for cleaning so if we aren't
5:01
getting removable flexible print
5:03
surfaces let's at least keep the top of
5:05
the bill plate out of the resin please
5:07
now when it comes to the connection to
5:08
the Zed arm well it's easy this one
5:11
enough with the bolts people and if
5:12
you're going to do bolts then do the
5:14
asymmetrical Leever style used on the
5:16
Nova 3D whale SE or the elu Jupiter SE
5:19
because they are much easier to loosen
5:21
and tighten but ideally a nice latch as
5:24
seen on the gk2 or the ultracraft reflex
5:27
would be ideal because that's really
5:28
simple to put the bill plate in and
5:30
pulled the latch down to lock it in
5:32
place one-handed because your other hand
5:34
is probably holding models or a tool or
5:36
is just covered in resin for the Zed
5:38
rail I'd say we'd like two rails but I
5:41
think that's obvious no matter how big
5:42
or small the print bed is stability
5:44
across the width of the arm is key and
5:47
when it comes to the screw for the
5:48
mechanism the ball screws are much
5:50
smoother than lead screws so yeah I'd
5:53
really like to see more of those
5:54
imprinters going forward especially if
5:56
you want to be classed as a quality one
5:58
as for the rotation of of this screw
6:00
well manufacturers I think should be
6:02
aware that we really need a motor
6:03
capable of a 20 Micron increment of the
6:06
plate lift height we already have
6:08
screens with sub20 Micron pixels let's
6:11
make sure we can match that in the Zed
6:13
height too or at the very least hey
6:15
Brands why don't you start publishing
6:17
the minimum step distance with your
6:19
printers if it's six microns cool but
6:21
just tell us clearly at least then we
6:24
can reduce the layer height to 18
6:25
microns instead of rounding up to 20 and
6:28
having the printer compensate for us
6:29
every few layers please just allow us to
6:32
be accurate and when it comes to speed
6:35
well the minimum movement speed I've
6:37
Ever Needed on PFA film is 60 mm a
6:41
minute or also known as 1 mm a second so
6:44
it needs to be able to go at least this
6:46
slow if it goes too fast it won't work
6:48
with some of the higher quality resins
6:50
and by quality I mean print quality and
6:53
for those out there who want fast
6:54
printers well the brands are now
6:56
competing with the likes of the Frozen
6:58
Mega 8ks which is a apparently capable
7:00
of 1200 mm a minute or 20 mm a second
7:04
and yeah that's far beyond what the
7:05
materials and pull forces are capable of
7:08
but since it's been done let's just call
7:10
this The Benchmark set and let the
7:12
materials catch up next on to the vat
7:16
and the first bit is simple make it
7:17
metal so you don't look cheap but if you
7:19
are going to make it plastic at least
7:21
make it translucent so that the few
7:23
times when we're using translucent resin
7:25
we might be able to see the layers
7:26
before they start to rise out of the vat
7:28
that would be handy
7:29
and you should also all everyone should
7:33
put a protruding Sprout on one corner
7:35
not just a different shaped corner but
7:37
an actual spout that sticks out of the
7:39
vat again like on the ultracraft reflex
7:43
so at least then when you're pouring
7:44
resin out of it it doesn't run down and
7:47
under the vat and risk going onto the Fe
7:49
or just drip everywhere and the other
7:51
thing this must have is an integrated
7:53
heater within the vat itself this has
7:55
been done on the Apex maker X1 it's the
7:58
most efficient way to heat resin and it
7:59
should be adopted by every brand and be
8:02
in every printer perhaps I don't know
8:04
give us the option to get a vat without
8:06
it to save costs but there should
8:08
definitely be an option for a heat on
8:10
every single printer made going forwards
8:13
and I know people talk about chamber
8:14
heaters but they warm the resin in the
8:16
vat last after heating the air in the
8:19
chamber and the already cured model
8:21
they're certainly useful as an addition
8:23
to a vat heater or a heater below the
8:25
resin chamber but alone they're not the
8:28
best approach
8:29
as for a release film well this might
8:31
not surprise anyone PFA all the way for
8:34
quality but ACF needs to be available as
8:37
an option for those happy to sacrifice a
8:39
bit of quality for an improved print
8:41
speed and finally when attaching the vat
8:44
to the printer no more bolts please once
8:46
again I'll sight The ultracraft Reflex
8:48
here give us some nice latches or like
8:50
the gk2 have a way to lock it in place
8:53
and whilst you're at it put some
8:55
comfortable handles on the vat itself
8:56
too please and finally something that
8:58
I'm just just making up out of nowhere
9:00
I'd really like someone to come up with
9:02
a better way of attaching the release
9:04
film to the vat itself because the
9:06
current process just it takes forever to
9:08
swap the film on any printer that's our
9:11
main technical Parts covered I want to
9:13
quickly talk about an important function
9:15
leveling first off instead of spending
9:17
the whole video imagining what we want
9:19
let's talk about what we don't want and
9:21
what we don't want is the stupid elu
9:23
ball mount on any printer and to the
9:25
seven of you who have never had problems
9:27
with yours feel free to to voice your
9:29
opinion in the comments below I know you
9:31
will and I like when you do it because
9:33
your interactions increase the reach of
9:35
this video so thanks for your help while
9:37
you're having a go at me look I know I'm
9:39
having a crack But please understand
9:41
that I've seen more comments in
9:42
agreement with this than the few of you
9:44
who don't need to relevel every three or
9:46
four prints and the typical fourpoint
9:48
screw mechanism used on every other
9:50
printer out there is certainly the
9:52
better option when done right but
9:54
honestly neither of these are the best
9:56
and that's what this video is about
9:58
right the best of everything the best
10:00
mechanism I've seen so far for leveling
10:02
the plate is used on printers like the
10:04
Apex maker X1 Frozen's Mega 8K printers
10:07
and the gk2 just to name a few of them
10:10
these use a set of inner grub screws
10:12
that set the level of the bed To Each
10:13
corner and then four outer screws which
10:16
go in the opposite direction to lock
10:18
them in place it's easy to level these
10:20
when you understand it but because I'm
10:21
yet to see one like this unlevel itself
10:24
in my opinion they should be pre-leveled
10:26
from the factory anyway and whilst we're
10:28
on the inside of this imaginary printer
10:30
let's talk about some other things we
10:32
want to get inside there shall we one is
10:34
a carbon filter like what elu has been
10:37
giving us but a better one these
10:39
shouldn't be running for the whole print
10:40
because that just wears them out faster
10:42
but it's definitely better to have one
10:44
circulating the air inside the chamber
10:46
and therefore keeping it running through
10:48
the filter over and over rather than
10:50
what elgu's done with the Mars mate and
10:52
pump it all out into your room and it'd
10:55
be nice to see these with some kind of
10:56
air quality sensor inside the chamber
10:58
too so then at least you know when it's
11:00
safer to open the lid this is probably
11:02
super expensive but again guys we're
11:04
wishing for stuff here and despite this
11:06
being in there I'd still also like to
11:08
see an optional vent cover like we have
11:11
on pretty much any of elgu's large
11:12
printer lids and also on the mega 8 KS
11:15
from Frozen with this at least we'd have
11:17
the option to pump Vapors outside and
11:20
then there's the resin pump I've said
11:21
many times that well I'm personally not
11:23
a fan of these because they're just too
11:25
messy if you're going to do one do it
11:27
but it needs some way of being
11:29
compatible with all the bottle types or
11:31
give us some empty containers like any
11:33
cubic did with the wash and cure Max and
11:35
the flip your bottle upside down options
11:37
never seem to do so well the one on the
11:40
Nova 3D printers just worries me and the
11:42
one on the ultracraft reflex is well
11:45
it's over engineered and in both cases
11:47
when swapping the bottle out they drip
11:49
everywhere so if you are going to offer
11:52
this then I like Frozen's approach make
11:54
it an optional extra for those people
11:56
who don't mind paying more to have it
11:58
and keep the pr inter costs down a bit
12:00
and speaking of Frozen one thing they
12:02
added on the MTI 8K that completely
12:04
failed was the camera but this is not a
12:07
bad idea for a feature if you're going
12:09
to do this you should do this take a
12:12
leaf out of Bamboo's book and put a
12:14
couple of very good bright lights in
12:16
your chamber so we can actually see the
12:18
model printing when checking on it
12:19
overnight and not just a silhouette
12:21
because the only light in the room comes
12:23
from outside of the printer case and
12:25
since most cameras are widescreen it
12:27
would make sense to orient it sideways
12:29
however so we can see more height than
12:31
width in the image make sure it's a
12:34
decent 1080p camera but give us the
12:36
option to upgrade to 4K if you can and
12:39
make sure the printer automatically
12:40
creates time lapses by taking a photo
12:42
when the bed lifts for each layer you
12:45
might be thinking that's an arbitrary
12:46
feature but actually if you included
12:49
that function everyone online would
12:51
share videos of your printer on social
12:53
media saying look at this that I printed
12:55
on that yes it's an expensive component
12:57
guys but it's also free marketing
13:00
afterwards so moving out of the printer
13:02
and back to the externals I'd like to
13:03
talk about ports the power socket hole
13:06
needs to be on the back of the printer
13:07
along with any type of network interface
13:09
such as ether a or anything else special
13:11
that you want to put on there that's
13:13
used by just a handful of people USB
13:16
ports should be on the front if you're
13:18
going to add Wi-Fi and you should add
13:20
Wi-Fi because in this day and age even
13:22
some toasters kettles and microwaves
13:24
have Wi-Fi but if you're going to add
13:26
Wi-Fi then please make sure the aerial
13:28
for it is inside the chassis and not
13:30
sticking out the side somewhere and the
13:33
remaining key feature is well it's the
13:35
interface with the printer this needs to
13:38
be a capacitive touchcreen and my
13:39
favorite interfaces so far are between
13:42
the satin 3 Ultra and the Apex maker X1
13:45
the former has a lot of controls and
13:47
it's very intuitive everything is well
13:49
translated and all the options are in a
13:51
sensible place but the much larger
13:54
approach taken by Apex maker is really
13:56
impressive it's just a shame that it's
13:58
let down by a few unintuitive icons and
14:01
an incomplete translation as a note to
14:03
all printer makers this is one of the
14:05
most important features of your machine
14:07
it's how your user commands the printer
14:09
to do things make it sexy make it fast
14:12
and make all of the most common features
14:14
be on the front and most obvious screen
14:17
secondary functions on the next and any
14:19
anciliary function should be on a third
14:21
or even fourth level that's it also when
14:25
the printer's printing show us
14:26
meaningful info show us a Rend of what
14:29
the currently exposed layer looks like
14:31
show us some info about the temperature
14:33
and other settings that are happening
14:34
inside the machine at the time that are
14:37
important that you might want to know
14:39
when a print is printing but more than
14:41
anything please show us a clear progress
14:44
bar with a countdown timer telling us
14:46
how long in time until the print is done
14:49
and then external to this but also in
14:51
controls please stop it with all the
14:53
proprietary weird apps to connect to
14:55
Wi-Fi and all that lock too we all know
14:58
how smart phones work the UI designers
15:00
surely have one so make all of the setup
15:02
controls as simple as a phone app and if
15:05
you're going to make a phone app too so
15:06
we can I don't know remotely monitor the
15:08
prints or control it from our phones
15:11
please make sure it's nothing like
15:12
reality Cloud's fomo style Hard Sell of
15:15
absolute crap and its unintuitive
15:18
storefront be like anchormate be like
15:20
bamboo handy then build your storefront
15:23
from a solid and sensible Foundation
15:25
once everything else Works in a good way
15:28
I mean it doesn't sound like this is too
15:30
hard yet so many Brands get it very
15:32
wrong disappointed and it will be the
15:35
first thing that was reviewers slate
15:37
when lazy design makes it harder than it
15:39
needs to be to use a printer and finally
15:42
some functional features all printers
15:45
should come with a built-in series of
15:46
exposure tests built into the onboard
15:48
control system or UI and it should walk
15:51
you through things like leveling and
15:52
further testing on the UI it should have
15:55
you print a load of squares at different
15:57
base exposure times s in one print so
15:59
you can see which one's stuck and which
16:01
ones are too stuck from this you can
16:04
then determine what your best base
16:05
exposure time is and all printers should
16:08
do what any cubic offers and let you
16:10
print a resin exposure Rangefinder at
16:12
different exposure times on one plate
16:15
and then the UI should explain to you
16:17
how to determine which one the best is
16:20
and it should then let you walk through
16:21
a series of further test to determine
16:23
things like best lift speed again this
16:25
should all be on the UI and explain how
16:27
to work out what fails look like and
16:30
finally it should let you then use these
16:32
daring settings to test different
16:33
amounts of anti-aliasing to remove all
16:36
traces of voxal and layer lines with
16:38
minimal impact on detail would this take
16:41
some time for a person to do yes but to
16:43
dial in your printer perfectly anyway
16:45
you need to do this anyway and everyone
16:47
in the world needs to learn how to do it
16:49
with a myriad of different tests and
16:51
opinions out there hoping that they've
16:53
guessed and have the best results yet
16:56
they have no validation this is why the
16:58
printer should do this and that's how
17:01
bamboo won the fdm race by having things
17:04
like calibration already set for the
17:06
user or it walks them through it and
17:08
holds their hand from the slicer and I
17:11
also want to talk about a feature that
17:12
most of you have probably never heard of
17:15
these home printers need a way for
17:17
increasing the exposure time or ideally
17:19
intensity of just the supports layer
17:22
times are so fast now anyway that it's
17:24
the lift and retract speed slowing down
17:26
resin printing so we have plenty of time
17:29
to even double up our exposure times and
17:31
still get fast prints and since we don't
17:34
have Direct Control why can't a brand
17:36
already figure out some way of when the
17:38
bed lowers it cures the objects layer
17:41
and then without moving dynamically
17:43
increases the light intensity and cures
17:45
the supports separately before lifting
17:48
and why would you do this well this
17:50
would actually Harden the supports more
17:52
and make them more brittle which means
17:54
as you pull them away from the model the
17:56
supports themselves are the weaker part
17:58
of the object and are the more likely
18:00
failure point this is what industrial
18:02
printers do in order to make parts that
18:04
are needle thin break away from supports
18:06
without any damage and doing this would
18:08
be a complete resin game Cher and
18:11
another thing that should be baked into
18:13
slices is some kind of test similar to
18:15
the cones of calibration where different
18:17
amounts of material are supported by
18:19
different thicknesses of material by
18:21
printing something like this and telling
18:23
the slicer which ones failed it would go
18:25
a long way to informing the slicer which
18:27
supports or even just parts of the model
18:30
would fail before you even start a print
18:32
because it would have been able to
18:34
determine the maximum pull forces on
18:36
different diameters of material and how
18:38
much material each of them is expected
18:40
to hold once we had something like this
18:43
Auto supports would become an absolute
18:45
Breeze but that requires someone to
18:47
actually spend time in developing one of
18:49
these slices alongside the printer
18:51
hardware and thus far every brand has
18:54
relied on chitubox lchi or Tango and
18:57
done little more than Rebrand one of
18:59
those apps to their own right then as
19:01
always we leave the best to last the
19:04
screen and as I read through this and
19:06
realize how much of my scripts I've got
19:07
to go probably should have made this a
19:09
separate video so I'm going to try and
19:11
give you the cliff notes and then I'll
19:12
do that another time now the first thing
19:14
I want to say is considering the screen
19:16
is a replaceable part everybody should
19:19
do what uniformation has done and make
19:21
it so that it's easy to access that
19:23
component with pretty much every printer
19:26
ever it's half a tear down to get access
19:28
to the screen in order to replace it
19:30
with the gk2 you pop out four screws
19:33
flip up a latch for a ribbon cable and
19:35
put the new screen in now coming back to
19:38
Imagining the final parts of the printer
19:40
I honestly don't care what the screen
19:42
size is the screen size should cater for
19:45
the needs of the user and the size of
19:47
the screen and the cost of the printer
19:49
should increase or decrease accordingly
19:51
based on how big or how small it is and
19:54
as I talk about this I've got no idea
19:56
how these things are made I have no idea
19:57
how any of this is made nor do I even
19:59
care I'm just saying what we should have
20:01
much cleverer people than me need to
20:03
work out how to actually do it but
20:05
whatever the screen size is it's the
20:06
pixel size that matters and please stop
20:09
chasing 8K 12K 24K 62k whatever let's go
20:14
through some math and by that I mean
20:16
insane math that I got off the internet
20:18
and pulled a couple of bits chucked it
20:19
all into Excel got a result and it kind
20:22
of make sense as we've learned from
20:24
retina displays the human eye cannot see
20:26
a difference between pixels when there
20:28
are around 326 pixels per inch and
20:31
you're holding it about a foot away from
20:33
your face now this is where I once again
20:35
talk crazy math in a video but go with
20:37
me and tell me if my theory is wrong in
20:38
the comments so here we go first of all
20:41
yes we'd all love this screen to be DLP
20:44
but nobody's driving DLP technology
20:46
forward as much as LCD we are years away
20:48
from seeing these resolutions on DLP if
20:51
not decades or even never but with
20:53
Technologies like cob light sources for
20:55
even distribution of UV light across the
20:57
display and forel lenses LCD is actually
21:01
close to matching the sharpness of DLP
21:03
now anyway but for the math go with me
21:06
let's assume we have a pixel density of
21:08
326 PPI like on the retina display and
21:12
let's take the Saturn 3 as our subject
21:14
to use a pretty standard size of the
21:16
x-axis print volume which is
21:19
28.8 mm in inches this would be around
21:22
8.62 in multiplying the width in inches
21:25
by 326 pixels per inch to tells us that
21:28
this imaginary screen would have 2,810
21:32
pixels on the x-axis so if we divide the
21:36
2.88 mm of that access by the number of
21:39
pixels in it that tells us that we would
21:41
have a pixel width of 78 microns and
21:45
let's just assume that this display has
21:46
Square pixels just to avoid any
21:48
confusion and I didn't need the printer
21:50
in the math I could have worked this out
21:51
from the same just using 1 mm but then
21:54
I've have nothing to show on screen and
21:55
this is a printer's video so if the
21:57
logic of written and the displays is
21:58
correct and that the human eye can't
22:00
determine the difference between pixels
22:01
at 326 pixels per inch or on pixels that
22:04
are 78 microns in size when they're 12
22:06
in away from your eye how then are we
22:08
able to see voxal lines on prints with
22:11
screens where the pixels are as low as
22:13
50 microns well here's my theory with
22:16
Retina displays it's a flat 2D plane but
22:19
your eyes have a special power when
22:21
you're lucky enough to have two of them
22:23
you can also register depth an
22:25
additional Dimension that is not present
22:27
on 2D screens these three-dimensional
22:30
objects are also affected by light
22:32
bouncing off the edges differently which
22:34
accents the forms and due to the
22:36
Cinematic lighting I tend to use in my
22:37
videos I always light subjects from the
22:40
side which makes things stand out more
22:42
light things from the front and those
22:44
voxal lines start to disappear and blur
22:46
so okay let's account for that special
22:49
depth Power by doubling the PPI to
22:52
652 and using the same math in Excel the
22:56
pixel size goes down to 39 microns and
22:58
this is where things start to become a
23:00
little less obvious this is the same in
23:03
Zed resolution too for those of you
23:04
still printing at 50 Micron layer
23:06
Heights also as an additional FYI most
23:09
of the industrial DLP printers used in
23:11
the production of things like Miniatures
23:13
operate at around 38 microns in pixel
23:16
size anyway and that's because the
23:18
industry manufacturers know that this is
23:20
as much as you probably need and when
23:23
you're around this size you just need to
23:25
add the smallest amount of anti-aliasing
23:27
and you don't need to push the
23:28
technology further to improve the detail
23:30
Beyond reasonable bluring the surface on
23:33
the edge of each layer projection will
23:35
soften all of that out without any
23:37
distinguishable loss of detail to the
23:39
overall
23:40
piece and I know there's a few of you
23:43
out there who are still thinking but
23:44
I've watched your videos F hammer and I
23:46
can still see voxal lines on your prints
23:48
with much smaller pixel sizes but again
23:51
let me stress the retina example on
23:53
phones is when the phone is 12 in from
23:55
your eyes that's a lot different to me
23:57
shooting images of it on my macro lens
23:59
and you watching it on your big screen
24:02
the model I always show of me wearing
24:03
power armor built with parts from atland
24:05
Forge is about as tall as my thumbnail
24:08
or 15 mm how many 15 mm can you fit in
24:12
the area of the screen that you're
24:14
looking at this model on and again
24:16
consider that the lighting also accents
24:18
all of the sharp edges and also when any
24:21
of us are out there shooting Miniatures
24:23
to share photos with our friends how big
24:25
are they on your screen compared to the
24:27
model itself if it's two times bigger
24:29
you'd need a printer with 19 Micron
24:31
pixels to hide those lines and we have
24:34
that in a way because these new 12K
24:36
screens have 19 Micron pixels on the
24:38
x-axis but as I look back at my Mars 4
24:41
reviews I can't see any box or lines
24:43
when I zoom in with its 18 Micron Square
24:47
pixels only the layer lines are visible
24:49
and they're 30 microns and if you wanted
24:52
four times magnification which isn't
24:54
realistic for Miniatures when you're
24:56
seeing them on a computer screen you'd
24:58
actually need 10 Micron pixels for them
25:00
to Disappear Completely so as I've said
25:03
now for over a year just enable
25:05
anti-aliasing and be happy with what
25:07
your printer does I think no matter what
25:09
printer screen size we go for yeah we
25:12
should aim for all printers to have sub
25:14
20 Micron pixels and we should print at
25:17
20 Micron layer Heights for the most
25:19
detailed prints which will allow for two
25:21
times magnification without these lines
25:23
being significantly visible but even
25:26
then you may as well enable antialiasing
25:28
to smooth everything out perfectly
25:29
anyway and to avoid any light cast
25:32
highlighting them but the thing I want
25:34
to see the most is Brands need to stop
25:36
chasing this resolution metric because
25:39
well I hope I've kind of theoretically
25:42
proven here it's
25:43
pointless and we're all sick of it and
25:46
besides no matter how good the screens
25:48
are getting most resins can't render
25:50
that level of detail anyway I hope my
25:52
insane math and specious logic Mak sense
25:55
and I hope you enjoyed coming on this
25:56
journey with me hope hopefully now we
25:58
will get some Brands listening and
25:59
heading towards this more than anything
26:02
I'd like to see all the companies
26:03
released finished printers you'll see on
26:05
my channel I haven't reviewed the Athena
26:07
yet and that's because they aren't
26:09
releasing it until it's done and for
26:11
that alone I have very high hopes for
26:13
that printer and also printer brands if
26:15
you're going to give us a USB drive and
26:17
expect that to be a key part of the
26:18
machine please give us a decent quality
26:21
one or just don't bother I want to say
26:23
thanks for watching and thanks to our
26:25
members who help us make these videos
26:27
please consider join in to get some
26:28
benefits there is a link below this
26:30
video unless you're on iPhone the link
26:32
is in the description please don't
26:33
forget to like hit subscribe the
26:35
notification Bell but especially leave a
26:37
comment what do you think what do you
26:39
want in a future printer until next time
26:42
life finds a way faux hammer
26:46
[Music]
26:56
out